I think that maybe the main problem on the busy weekends isn’t so much the number of people but rather the number of people travelling in large groups. I was in a large group last weekend too and it is really hard to be flexible with plans or accommodate other climbers when you are trying to get 10 people on the same route. It’s hard to tell the other group of 10 people who walk up to a wall to just work in when things are like that.

I also thought several times over the weekend about how strange it was that we drove almost 10 hours one way through horrendous traffic to climb in terrible humidity and crowding yet the entire weekend was well worth it. Strange strange stuff this climbing is.

I was at the Red this memorial day weekend and the weekend before. Swas it swarmy? For sure. But excellent times anyway.

There were definitely a lot of new climbers there. My group of 9 included 4 climbers who are still very new. Despite the wide ranges in ability (5.8 to 5.13) everyone had a good time.

A lot of new climbers end up at Red River Gorge because it is where their more experienced friends talk about and go to climb.

As a more experienced climber I feel obligated to help newer climbers and to keep an eye on them – even if they aren’t in my group. Teaching people proper technique and safety is a great way to not only help others, but also to refresh in your mind all the things you’ve learned over the years. At some point we were all noobs!

I heard (secondhand) of one ground fall that resulted in a med evac. It was a new leader trying to clip the second bolt when they lost their stance. Not good – but hard to say exactly what happened since I wasn’t there. My only advice is – if you are a new leader try top roping a route before you lead it and practice clipping while on toprope. Just a thought.

The Red has plenty of areas to absorb the number of climbers – Miguel’s on the other hand is a little under parked for peak weekends – funny that everyone used to fit inside Miguel’s and two tables outside, but the popularity of the sport is awesome.

I second Mark’s sentiments…whatever the weather it is time to SEND! Or at least it will make our projects feel easy this fall!

-Kevin

Other than that. I think that while crowding sucks, theres a lot of things that informed groups can do to try to counter that. Spreading out, keeping their things together and not strewn all over is a good start. Additionally, for those who feel hounded by the crowds, there are always a few places you can go to escape the groups if it bothers you. On the nice days, the places that are generally a bit more in the sun or known as “wet weather” crags (i.e. Roadside, Bruise Brothers) might not be bearable at first thought, the heat or sun might make for better “climbing conditions” than a group of boy scouts begging you to rope gun.

Personally, I just want to get back down there and tick some things off, no matter the conditions.

As for this weekend, I made it to Devils Lake and had my ass handed to me by Acid Rock. That’s about as far in style from Ro Shampo or Twinkie as 5.12a gets, I suspect.

Trad climbing is a good way to avoid crowds on just about any weekend imaginable…