News…
- Joe Kinder did the FA of 5.14bs Less Than Zero and Sodom and Gamorrah at an undisclosed location in UT. He also flashed Cross Town (5.13d).
- Kairn. com reports that 12-year old Shawn Raboutou, son of well-known climbers Robyn Erbesfield and Didier Raboutou, did his first 5.14a Attention on vous regarde in St. Antonin, France.
- Nearing the end of his latest road trip, Jonathan Siegrist ticked off Problem Child (5.14c) at Deep Creek, WA.
- Anna Stohr and Adam Ondra won the most recent Bouldering World Cup held in Moscow. American Alex Johnson finished 13th and she is 4th in the overall standings after 4 events.
- Jimmy Webb‘s nice summer continued over the past few weeks according to his 8a scorecard which shows repeats in RMNP of the super long Aslan (V14, 5th ascent?) and the classic testpiece The Automator (V13). Here’s some “old” video of Ty Landman on the 2nd ascent of Aslan:
- On the heels of his victory at the Vail World Cup, Daniel Woods made a quick trip to Brazil where he banked $2,500 for winning a comp and repeated a couple of the area v13s. (UKClimbing)
- Dave Wetmore realized a long time goal last week when he finally clipped the chains on Parallel Universe (5.14a) in Rumney, NH:
Parallel Universe (5.14a): Dave Wetmore (LT11) from David Wetmore on Vimeo.
…And Notes
- Check out the Women’s Issue of Deadpoint Magazine
- Peter Beal on how changes in the “mentality” of climbers over the years has led to advances in difficulty:
Even the idea of a climbing gym is technologically incredibly easy. If I had, as a teenager, a little wall like the one in my own house that I have now, I could well have been climbing 5.14 in 1980, not 5.11. But “real” climbing meant outside on real rock so that climbers were constrained by rock-type, weather, dark of night, and available free time.
- Check out 27crags.com, a new sort of hyrbid site that hopes to combine the aspects of popular sites like Mountainproject, Rockclimbing.com and blogs into one destination. Their online topo editor definitely looks cool.
I’ve been a bit busy lately and rather out of the loop. What else is going on? Any other cool stories out there?
