News & Notes – 6/22/2010

News & Notes – 6/22/2010

News…

  • Joe Kinder did the FA of 5.14bs Less Than Zero and Sodom and Gamorrah at an undisclosed location in UT.  He also flashed Cross Town (5.13d).
  • Kairn. com reports that 12-year old Shawn Raboutou, son of well-known climbers Robyn Erbesfield and Didier Raboutou, did his first 5.14a Attention on vous regarde in St. Antonin, France.
  • Nearing the end of his latest road trip, Jonathan Siegrist ticked off Problem Child (5.14c) at Deep Creek, WA.
  • Anna Stohr and Adam Ondra won the most recent Bouldering World Cup held in Moscow.  American Alex Johnson finished 13th and she is 4th in the overall standings after 4 events.
  • Jimmy Webb‘s nice summer continued over the past few weeks according to his 8a scorecard which shows repeats in RMNP of the super long  Aslan (V14, 5th ascent?) and the classic testpiece The Automator (V13).  Here’s some “old” video of Ty Landman on the 2nd ascent of Aslan:

  • On the heels of his victory at the Vail World Cup, Daniel Woods made a quick trip to Brazil where he banked $2,500 for winning a comp and repeated a couple of the area v13s. (UKClimbing)
  • Dave Wetmore realized a long time goal last week when he finally clipped the chains on Parallel Universe (5.14a) in Rumney, NH:

Parallel Universe (5.14a): Dave Wetmore (LT11) from David Wetmore on Vimeo.

…And Notes

Even the idea of a climbing gym is technologically incredibly easy. If I had, as a teenager,  a little wall like the one in my own house that I have now, I could well have been climbing 5.14 in 1980, not 5.11. But “real” climbing meant outside on real rock so that climbers were constrained by rock-type, weather, dark of night, and available free time.

  • Check out 27crags.com, a new sort of hyrbid site that hopes to combine the aspects of popular sites like Mountainproject, Rockclimbing.com and blogs into one destination.  Their online topo editor definitely looks cool.

I’ve been a bit  busy lately and rather out of the loop.  What else is going on?  Any other cool stories out there?

Posted In: Bouldering, News, News & Notes, Sport Climbing, Videos, World Cup
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12 Responses to News & Notes – 6/22/2010

  1. matt June 22, 2010 at 8:29 am #

    I sent one of the crimp projects in my basement last week, V10? on a sadder note, I’m getting tendon repair surgery from a hand injury from last April.

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  2. andres June 22, 2010 at 9:14 am #

    The Daniel Woods video, is not from Brazil.

    Is from a competition in Chile more than a year ago. March 2009.

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    • Narc June 22, 2010 at 9:21 am #

      Weird. Thanks for the heads up.

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    • Gelu June 22, 2010 at 10:41 am #

      yep, at least one year old:
      http://vimeo.com/3902468

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  3. peter beal June 22, 2010 at 9:27 am #

    Thanks for the mention. I also have sent a V10 project on my home wall. Other than that, nothing is happening. The Park is humming with 18th repeats of V13s. Jade is V14.

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    • Narc June 22, 2010 at 9:36 am #

      It would appear so with respect to Jade. It’s interesting to read that the crux hold has apparently gotten larger…

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      • antvicino June 22, 2010 at 8:42 pm #

        Where did you read that the crux hold got larger? Or are you jesting?

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      • Marcus July 7, 2010 at 8:15 pm #

        Yeah that seems like too big of news to not have heard, where’d you read that?

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        • Mark July 8, 2010 at 11:51 pm #

          I believe Jamie Emerson reported that somewhere on b3bouldering.com but I am too lazy to go look it up. Might be wrong, I just think thats what it was as of right now.

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  4. Jeremy June 22, 2010 at 10:31 am #

    Stone Summit has opened up in Atlanta, Georgia. http://www.ssclimbing.com

    Give it a look. The gym is amazing.

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    • Narc June 22, 2010 at 11:03 am #

      I’m just going to pretend a gym like that doesn’t exist so I actually have the will to keep climbing on the 35 ft. walls at my current gym…

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  5. matt June 24, 2010 at 9:09 am #

    in an update to my update, my good hand, that isn’t getting operated on, has been sore since sending my basement project/working the next one.

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