Comments on: Accident At New River Gorge Offers Learning Experience

By: Jeff

Jeff — Fri, 23 Jul 2010 02:24:17 +0000

Lowering tip: http://www.pyb.co.uk/information/top-tips/top-tips-lowering.php (note, on this page the demonstrator has only one sling from harness to anchor. I always use two, one to each anchor.)

Check, double check, and then check again.

Of course if she was rapping down then that is different. Truly sad. I was at the red about a month ago when a girl decked from the second bolt. She went to hospital but released same day, no major injuries. It still spooked us all for the rest of the day.

By: Narc

Narc — Wed, 21 Jul 2010 12:17:38 +0000

I believe she was planning on rapping off

By: Ben

Ben — Wed, 21 Jul 2010 02:19:57 +0000

Why was the climber not still on belay? If she clipped the anchors and yelled safe, she surely should still be on belay, with an overhand with a biner or something similar in place while threading??

By: Stup

Stup — Wed, 30 Jun 2010 16:32:36 +0000

Not sure what kind of chain you’re talking about, but the ones I know have two bolts, connected with chains. So if you feed two elements of these there need to be at least 2 pieces of metal failing for you to deck.

Which is rather unlikely…

By: Jonni Lehtiranta

Jonni Lehtiranta — Wed, 30 Jun 2010 16:00:16 +0000

Lowering off the chain means that there are 10-20 loops, and if any single one of these or either bolt fails, it’s game over for you.

Any fixed rap ring I’d see around would be really thick and sturdy, and connected to two bolts with two separate chains (or directly to one bolt, chained to another).

Personally I like to put my rope through some metal loop that has separate connections to two bolts and inspecting this one loop with extra care. It’s simply the principle of minimizing the consequences of some random element failing.

By: Karmavore

Karmavore — Tue, 22 Jun 2010 07:12:16 +0000

I equip dozens of new routes each year, and have NO problem with people lowering through chains. If the chains are of sufficient quality (3/8″ proof coil) they are good for hundreds if not thousands of lowers, provided that the area doesn’t have unusual weathering situations (e.g. I’ve noticed that the grit at Smith Rocks tends to wear the chain prematurely). The bottom line is to INSPECT each element of the anchoring system before you commit to it. For a chain to be sufficiently weak for both sides to fail would require truly exceptional wear, and is easily avoided by rappelling (not spelling) from unworn links above.

By: ejw

ejw — Tue, 22 Jun 2010 04:34:53 +0000

This is more common in “newer” sport areas, from what I have seen. The Red, the New- all over the east/southeast you are more likely to find chains, rap anchors, or maybe just two bolt hangars staring back at you when you reach the finishing anchors.

By: ?

Tue, 22 Jun 2010 00:55:48 +0000

I find rap rings pointless and weak (150 lbs each?!). I can’t help but think that if she had not had to go off belay (yes, of course she should have tested the system with body weight first) to pull the rope and then rappel on said rings, this accident would have been avoided.

By: ?

Tue, 22 Jun 2010 00:49:34 +0000

Narc,

I climb mostly in the southwest. I haven’t seen a rap ring at a sport area, or even a mixed one in ages. The average route at least has chains or welded cold shuts. The 10a area classic at a well-traveled area usually has biners for speed, safety, and it easier to replace a biner than chain.

By: Narc

Narc — Mon, 21 Jun 2010 11:01:52 +0000

I don’t know about at the New, but at the Red River Gorge it is fairly uncommon for routes to have carabiners on the chains. Where do you climb that this is surprising??