Comments on: Review: Bouldering Guide To Horse Pens 40 (HP40), Moss Rock & Palisades Park

By: dachoppera

dachoppera — Thu, 04 Feb 2010 18:23:16 +0000

It’s surprising that several people have mentioned Adam’s tone in the guidebook. I think JE referenced his disconnect with the progressive bouldering community. I don’t “know” Adam, but i have spent some time around him…he is one of the nicest guys out there. I am not from the south either but I think we could all learn a lot from the “southern way,” as it has more to do with respect than pretension. HP40 has been one of the premier destinations in the U.S. over the last decade and yet southerners recognized that Adam was the only person capable of writing a guidebook. Westerners would be wise to note the difference between this situation and that of the front range guide situation of late.

By: Narc

Narc — Thu, 04 Feb 2010 17:50:11 +0000

A book filled with only stories from Mike would be an interesting read, that’s for sure.

By: Horse Pens 40 Bouldering Reviews | Greener Grass Publishing

Horse Pens 40 Bouldering Reviews | Greener Grass Publishing — Thu, 04 Feb 2010 16:08:07 +0000

[...] has received a couple of reviews on the web. The first one comes from Brian Runnells who runs Climbingnarc.com. Amongst other things, he says about the book: Written by longtime local Adam Henry, the 184 [...]

By: anthony

anthony — Thu, 04 Feb 2010 15:24:42 +0000

“without the arrogance” ??? Southern pride (ignorance) is still considered arrogance to the rest of the world!! And the only “stench” you get here is the smell of Meth cooking and halitosis!! That being said, HP40 is an amazing, dream-like place to visit, despite the paranoid conspiracies of its proprietor. Even the great Frenchman Tony Lamiche had only positive remarks during his visit several years ago; “It’s like Font, but with better friction.”

By: peter b

peter b — Wed, 03 Feb 2010 22:41:12 +0000

From the Intro:

“Horse Pens is the Fontainebleau of the South, without the arrogance and the stench.”

Not exactly the friendliest tone here. I have never had a bad time at Font, except for the nutjob who told me to stop using chalk. And there is always Paris, Chartres and enough classic problems to fill a 1000 page book, let alone a 184 page book.

The comments about “the West” are not exactly nice either. Sounds kind of defensive to me. But hey, anyone’s welcome to come to Colorado and see for themselves.

By: Blue Alpine

Blue Alpine — Wed, 03 Feb 2010 22:20:28 +0000

It’s amazing these boulders weren’t climbed until the early 2000s. I didn’t know that.

By: anthony

anthony — Wed, 03 Feb 2010 16:02:51 +0000

Sounds good! Being from the Southeast, I take a certain pride in the “Southern way”; however, the downgrading that has taken place in the last few years (compared to when the Dr. Topo first appeared) has seemed a bit pretentious. I’m not trying to sound like a d-bag, just merely verbalizing what seems to be common frustration overheard throughout the field. Btw, thanks for keeping us to date on all of the going ons around the globe!

By: Tony

Tony — Wed, 03 Feb 2010 14:40:34 +0000

Looks good, though I liked that the Dr. Topo guide had FA info listed

By: Narc

Narc — Wed, 03 Feb 2010 14:16:34 +0000

He says in the book that the grades are based on consensus of those that have climbed the problems in perfect conditions, had knowledge of how to do the problem, and the given problem suited their strengths. When in doubt, he definitely errs on the low side which is another tenet of the “Southern Way”.

By: anthony

anthony — Wed, 03 Feb 2010 14:11:33 +0000

Will this guide include a true consensus of grades or just more of the same absurd downgrading from HIS truly Mr. Adam Henry? (Who apparently seems it necessary to base his grading scale on how a problem feels after climbing it 5 to 600 times!!)