Kevin Jorgeson has been in Colorado this week in search of overlooked highball boulder problems that need FAs. With the help of Andy Mann he found just such a boulder in Eldorado Canyon, and yesterday he did the FA of The Heist (V12).
Big Up’s Progression Update From Spain: Sharma, Ondra & Ojeda
Big Up Productions is hard at work in Spain filming their next movie Progression. As usual, Chris Sharma is one of their main subjects, but we will be treated to more of a European flavor as well. Adam Ondra and Daila Ojeda, both of whom made brief appearances in Dosage V, are also going to be featured. In their latest blog entry, Big Up has the inside scoop on some of the lines they have been filming.
News & Notes – 3/13/2009
News & Notes about Fred Nicole, Lynn Hill, Mike Doyle’s unexpected send, V13s for Nalle Hukkataival and more.
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Matt Segal Sends New Trad Line “Smart Went Crazy” In Eldo
Matt Segal, who is probably most well known these days for his first free ascent of a route in Eldorado Canyon, CO’s Kloof Alcove called Iron Monkey (5.14), recently returned to the Kloof Alcove to add another heady trad route.
Another Climbing Area Being Purchased By The SCC
The Southeastern Climbers Coalition continues to lead the way when it comes to securing permanent access to previously closed climbing areas. Late last year they secured access to Yellow Bluff, AL which had been closed since the early 1990′s. Around the same time, the excellent access themed short Heart Of Stone came out and it featured Brad McLeod [...]
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Chuck Fryberger Ethiopia Trip Reports
Not really climbing related, but still very interesting are the reports from Chuck Fryberger’s trip to Ethiopia. (Part 1, Part 2)
Donation Update
An update on the donations from ClimbingNarc.com to access causes and thoughts on an access related thread on 8a.nu
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Narc: Meant to link to that originally but somehow I mes...
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DK: Here's Ethan's write-up about his attempts: h...
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Colton: Just wanted to say thanks for the sticker! Came in...
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Will: Dave is my hero. He should probably be your hero t...
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greg: I agree, Love NKR1's, crazy foot cut DW is off th...
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IanP: Good tip man. What an inspiring little movie....
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Peter: I think it's cool to hear about not just the very...
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Ethan Pringle On Jumbo Love
May 18, 2012
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Video Friday – 5/18/2012
May 18, 2012
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Mon Pote Assis (5.14a) By Heather Robinson
May 17, 2012
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When In Doubt Pack It Out
May 16, 2012
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Gravelle Repeats Echale (V14)
May 16, 2012
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El Cap Report Returns For Spring 2012
May 15, 2012
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2nd Ascent Of Mystic Stylez (V15) By Dave MacLeod
May 15, 2012
News & Notes
Ethan Pringle On Jumbo Love
Ethan Pringle is back at Mt. Clark, home to that one route first done by that one guy:
Projecting a route like this requires all of your attention, and having to devote all of your attention to a route like this can get really tiring really fast. At some point, you just want to get it over with. Of course, afterward you feel a mix of relief and loss. Relief that you’re done and the epic is over, and loss that this magnificent line doesn’t require your presence anymore. But for me, I think I’ll have to take a nice long break from serious route projects for a little while after this. Like Randy Levitt said, “It’s like a limestone El Cap.” Obviously, that’s a bit of an exaggeration, but it does sort of convey the amount of work required to complete a project of this caliber.
Pringle is no stranger to Jumbo Love, having tried it even before its FA back in 2008. You can see some footage of those attempts here.
When In Doubt Pack It Out
I don’t know about you, but I always try my best to climb close to an actual bathroom. In case you don’t, the Access Fund has a nice refresher on what to do when nature calls.
Gravelle Repeats Echale (V14)
I guess it shouldn’t be surprising that with training like this that Canadian Yves Gravelle was able to climb his first V14 in Daniel Woods’ Echale in Clear Creek Canyon according to his 8a scorecard.





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