Comments on: Photo Friday: Hueco Tanks & RRG

By: Stefano Prezioso

Stefano Prezioso — Sat, 03 Apr 2010 03:43:41 +0000

Thanks for the compliment! And agreed, pretty thin and pumpy for a 10a, but what a wonderful climb.

By: Mark

Mark — Sat, 03 Apr 2010 03:10:52 +0000

This is really funny I stumbled across this. I just got back from the Red two days ago, and I also fell going for the anchors and took a 25-30 footer. I’m a tall guy, and my belayer got pulled up quite a bit which made it that big, and there was a bit of slack out. But I really do agree, the feet are crap, though the crux was easy because I could reach past it. And it does pitch back at the top. I got on Ro Shampo and found it easier because its an actual jug haul.

By: Stefano Prezioso

Stefano Prezioso — Sat, 03 Apr 2010 02:43:03 +0000

Hey, thanks for posting my pictures up! I forgot I sent those to you and hadn’t checked back in a while. Thanks for the nice compliments as well. To Defy the Laws of Tradition is a 5.10a. There’s a cool undercling/gaston move with a big reach after it in the beginning before the ledge that is definitely the crux. After the ledge, it’s just small (for 10a standards) 2 and 3 finger pockets to the end. They are all good, and there are loads of them, but if you are just breaking into 10′s, the pump can get to you pretty quick. I love the route, its so aesthetically pleasing.

Also, to explain the second picture down, it’s Defy at night. I set up my camera on a tripod, opened the shutter, then went, tied in, climbed it with a headlamp, and then rapped and cleaned the route. Cool shot that I’d love to get another of someday.

By: Narc

Narc — Tue, 08 Dec 2009 13:14:55 +0000

If 5.10 is at or near your limit I could see how the route could be a challenge. It isn’t exactly the mindless jug haul other routes at the Red tend to be.

By: GOd

GOd — Tue, 08 Dec 2009 03:16:19 +0000

I didn’t find Defy the Laws difficult at all. I don’t understand how it was heady, thin, and pumpy. There’s one reachy move, but that’s prolly because of my height. I honestly sggest it should be downgraded to a 5.9.

By: Connor G

Connor G — Sun, 06 Dec 2009 21:42:16 +0000

I went to Hueco a few years ago and likewise found the amazing Babyface. I sent it almost EXACTLY how you described it, with the thrutchy throw to that left hand, with a little helicopter thrown in there, and a frightening, primal scream. I sent completely at my limit at the time; since then I’ve climbed harder things, but Babyface is still my favorite send and the most memorable! An impressive send with no skin, I must say. Nice work, and a very enjoyable blog as well!

By: Narc

Narc — Sat, 05 Dec 2009 21:01:32 +0000

Thanks for the recommendation, I don’t think I’ve ever tried that route.

By: Scott Cran

Scott Cran — Sat, 05 Dec 2009 07:57:52 +0000

To Defy is a good route but if you want a truly gratifying classic 10 at the red you have to check out No Sleep Till Compton. It has everything you could want some slab, some overhang, a small roof, a nice mantle, and a pretty lax finish, and too top it all off one of the best views from the anchors. It is definitely the best 10 I have done at the Red so far.

Thanks for the pictures, always fun too look at climbing porn

Scott.

By: John Knoernschild

John Knoernschild — Fri, 04 Dec 2009 18:17:33 +0000

Nice pics and nice sends.

By: Kate C

Kate C — Fri, 04 Dec 2009 15:31:44 +0000

Mmmmm, really nice pics. The shots from the Red are beautiful.

I remember enjoying “To Defy the Laws of Tradition” but it was a heady climb, thin and pumpy at the same time. Yum.