Will Gadd had a series of posts recently where he shared a handful of random training thoughts, most of which espouse the benefits of actually doing an activity (i.e. climbing) rather than simply training for it. I found the discussion on the physical side of things interesting, but it was his latest post about mental fitness that really got me thinking.
The Mental Game
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Climbing Video: Ty Landman Fontainebleau Film Teasers
A couple of video teasers for an upcoming film about Ty Landman’s spring ’09 trip to Fontainebleau, France
Devil’s Lake West Bluff Bouldering Mini Guide & Moj Video
A mini guide to the bouldering at the West Bluff of Devil’s Lake as well as video of the FA of Moj (V8)
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Hound Ears 2009 Video: Max Zolotukhin Repeating Random Man (V11)
Dave Wetmore put together a short video of Max Zolotukhin and company doing the first repeat* of Random Man (V11, FA James Litz 2001) at this year’s Hound Ears Triple Crown event. Check out the rest of Dave’s blog for a lot of interesting stuff from the Rumney scene. An update on Phil Schaal’s gnarly skin problems that plagued him at the comp is here.
*See comment from Wills Young below
The (Partial) Cost Of Freeing El Cap
Kevin Jorgeson had a post on his blog recently where he outlined the packing list for his upcoming attempt to free a new route on El Capitan with Tommy Caldwell. In reading over the list and looking at the pictures, it really struck me just how much gear is needed to attempt a climb of this nature.
News & Notes – 10/06/2009
News & Notes from Dave Graham, Tommy Caldwell, the Hubers, Adam Ondra and much more…
2009 Triple Crown Bouldering Series: Hound Ears Results
Results from the 2009 Triple Crown Bouldering Series stop at Hound Ears, NC. UPDATED with links to more pictures.
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Narc: Meant to link to that originally but somehow I mes...
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DK: Here's Ethan's write-up about his attempts: h...
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Colton: Just wanted to say thanks for the sticker! Came in...
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Will: Dave is my hero. He should probably be your hero t...
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greg: I agree, Love NKR1's, crazy foot cut DW is off th...
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IanP: Good tip man. What an inspiring little movie....
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Peter: I think it's cool to hear about not just the very...
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Ethan Pringle On Jumbo Love
May 18, 2012
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Video Friday – 5/18/2012
May 18, 2012
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Mon Pote Assis (5.14a) By Heather Robinson
May 17, 2012
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When In Doubt Pack It Out
May 16, 2012
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Gravelle Repeats Echale (V14)
May 16, 2012
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El Cap Report Returns For Spring 2012
May 15, 2012
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2nd Ascent Of Mystic Stylez (V15) By Dave MacLeod
May 15, 2012
News & Notes
Ethan Pringle On Jumbo Love
Ethan Pringle is back at Mt. Clark, home to that one route first done by that one guy:
Projecting a route like this requires all of your attention, and having to devote all of your attention to a route like this can get really tiring really fast. At some point, you just want to get it over with. Of course, afterward you feel a mix of relief and loss. Relief that you’re done and the epic is over, and loss that this magnificent line doesn’t require your presence anymore. But for me, I think I’ll have to take a nice long break from serious route projects for a little while after this. Like Randy Levitt said, “It’s like a limestone El Cap.” Obviously, that’s a bit of an exaggeration, but it does sort of convey the amount of work required to complete a project of this caliber.
Pringle is no stranger to Jumbo Love, having tried it even before its FA back in 2008. You can see some footage of those attempts here.
When In Doubt Pack It Out
I don’t know about you, but I always try my best to climb close to an actual bathroom. In case you don’t, the Access Fund has a nice refresher on what to do when nature calls.
Gravelle Repeats Echale (V14)
I guess it shouldn’t be surprising that with training like this that Canadian Yves Gravelle was able to climb his first V14 in Daniel Woods’ Echale in Clear Creek Canyon according to his 8a scorecard.





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