Comments on: New 5.14 Trad Line Near Boulder http://climbingnarc.com/2009/10/new-5-14-trad-line-near-boulder-flatirons-cheating-reality/ So obsessed with climbing it hurts... Fri, 30 Jul 2010 16:30:16 +0000 hourly 1 http://wordpress.org/?v=3.0.1 By: Narc http://climbingnarc.com/2009/10/new-5-14-trad-line-near-boulder-flatirons-cheating-reality/comment-page-1/#comment-10260 Narc Mon, 19 Oct 2009 17:31:55 +0000 http://climbingnarc.com/?p=5768#comment-10260 Well, since Matt doesn't actually use the term "trad" explicitly I will take credit for doing that. The topic of what constitutes a trad climb these days has been discussed at length recently, I believe in Rock & Ice among other outlets. You are right in the purest sense of the word, but few people seem to adhere to those principles when it comes to climbing really difficult lines. As for the gear, he does state in his post that he would like to remove the fixed gear so I suppose it makes sense that he didn't use it while freeing the line. Well, since Matt doesn’t actually use the term “trad” explicitly I will take credit for doing that. The topic of what constitutes a trad climb these days has been discussed at length recently, I believe in Rock & Ice among other outlets. You are right in the purest sense of the word, but few people seem to adhere to those principles when it comes to climbing really difficult lines.

As for the gear, he does state in his post that he would like to remove the fixed gear so I suppose it makes sense that he didn’t use it while freeing the line.

]]> By: corey http://climbingnarc.com/2009/10/new-5-14-trad-line-near-boulder-flatirons-cheating-reality/comment-page-1/#comment-10259 corey Mon, 19 Oct 2009 17:23:03 +0000 http://climbingnarc.com/?p=5768#comment-10259 I don't see how not clipping fixed gear that is already stuck on a route makes it more clean. On many routes in the flatirons and eldo clipping fixed pro on the route such as an old pin is necessary as the only gear and doesn't negate the "purity" of the ascent, anyone who's taken a ride onto a fixed pin can attest to that. I also don't see how headpointing a route until you know it like the back of your hand before you lead it counts as a trad climb. In a traditional sense placing bolts and/or pins are a scarce but acceptable option if there is no gear available if they are placed on the lead. Im not trying to bash on Matt Wilder because he is a fiend I just think people should be aware that "trad" doesn't stand for the type of protection you use I don’t see how not clipping fixed gear that is already stuck on a route makes it more clean. On many routes in the flatirons and eldo clipping fixed pro on the route such as an old pin is necessary as the only gear and doesn’t negate the “purity” of the ascent, anyone who’s taken a ride onto a fixed pin can attest to that. I also don’t see how headpointing a route until you know it like the back of your hand before you lead it counts as a trad climb. In a traditional sense placing bolts and/or pins are a scarce but acceptable option if there is no gear available if they are placed on the lead. Im not trying to bash on Matt Wilder because he is a fiend I just think people should be aware that “trad” doesn’t stand for the type of protection you use

]]> By: Mark http://climbingnarc.com/2009/10/new-5-14-trad-line-near-boulder-flatirons-cheating-reality/comment-page-1/#comment-10254 Mark Mon, 19 Oct 2009 14:53:56 +0000 http://climbingnarc.com/?p=5768#comment-10254 THESE are the things I like to see. Scary, sporty, futuristic overhanging trad stuff. Sickkk. THESE are the things I like to see. Scary, sporty, futuristic overhanging trad stuff. Sickkk.

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