In the past month, France’s Charlotte Durif has done two 5.14c FAs, The Wall at Combe La Vielle and the amazing looking roof climb Pull Over at Grotte de Galetas.
Review: Big Up Productions’ Progression DVD
A review of Progression, the latest release from Big Up Productions
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Adam Ondra’s Hardest Route Yet
A likely sign of things to come, Adam Ondra has done the FA of what he considers his hardest route yet at a crag near Sardinia, Italy. Dubbed Marina Superstar, Ondra felt the route could be as hard as 5.15a/b, but only time will tell. Read a more in depth description of the climb (with pictures) here. Excellent interview here.
A Painful Learning Curve
A painful lesson of what can happen highball bouldering, updated with video.

Fred Nicole Repeats Bishop Testpiece
According to the Bishop Bouldering Blog, the nearly 40 year old Swiss bouldering legend Fred Nicole has climbed The Swarm (V14) in Bishop, CA, adding his name to the long list of people who have climbed the problem.

2nd Mescalito Update From Kevin Jorgeson
Back from a week off in New York, Kevin Jorgeson provides another update for the Black Diamond Journal about his and Tommy Caldwell’s efforts on El Cap. El Cap report pictures of them climbing are here and here.
Adam Taylor Punches Golden Ticket At The Red
Adam Taylor opens perhaps the most difficult line at the Red River Gorge
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Will: Dave is my hero. He should probably be your hero t...
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greg: I agree, Love NKR1's, crazy foot cut DW is off th...
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IanP: Good tip man. What an inspiring little movie....
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Peter: I think it's cool to hear about not just the very...
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Jimmy: Awesome! Its funny how they try to transition from...
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D$: When it's done by someone this sexy it is....
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colin: Great videos this week. So much for a productive m...
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Ethan Pringle On Jumbo Love
May 18, 2012
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Video Friday – 5/18/2012
May 18, 2012
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Mon Pote Assis (5.14a) By Heather Robinson
May 17, 2012
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When In Doubt Pack It Out
May 16, 2012
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Gravelle Repeats Echale (V14)
May 16, 2012
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El Cap Report Returns For Spring 2012
May 15, 2012
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2nd Ascent Of Mystic Stylez (V15) By Dave MacLeod
May 15, 2012
News & Notes
Ethan Pringle On Jumbo Love
Ethan Pringle is back at Mt. Clark, home to that one route first done by that one guy:
Projecting a route like this requires all of your attention, and having to devote all of your attention to a route like this can get really tiring really fast. At some point, you just want to get it over with. Of course, afterward you feel a mix of relief and loss. Relief that you’re done and the epic is over, and loss that this magnificent line doesn’t require your presence anymore. But for me, I think I’ll have to take a nice long break from serious route projects for a little while after this. Like Randy Levitt said, “It’s like a limestone El Cap.” Obviously, that’s a bit of an exaggeration, but it does sort of convey the amount of work required to complete a project of this caliber.
Pringle is no stranger to Jumbo Love, having tried it even before its FA back in 2008. You can see some footage of those attempts here.
When In Doubt Pack It Out
I don’t know about you, but I always try my best to climb close to an actual bathroom. In case you don’t, the Access Fund has a nice refresher on what to do when nature calls.
Gravelle Repeats Echale (V14)
I guess it shouldn’t be surprising that with training like this that Canadian Yves Gravelle was able to climb his first V14 in Daniel Woods’ Echale in Clear Creek Canyon according to his 8a scorecard.





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