In the past month, France’s Charlotte Durif has done two 5.14c FAs, The Wall at Combe La Vielle and the amazing looking roof climb Pull Over at Grotte de Galetas.
Review: Big Up Productions’ Progression DVD
A review of Progression, the latest release from Big Up Productions
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Adam Ondra’s Hardest Route Yet
A likely sign of things to come, Adam Ondra has done the FA of what he considers his hardest route yet at a crag near Sardinia, Italy. Dubbed Marina Superstar, Ondra felt the route could be as hard as 5.15a/b, but only time will tell. Read a more in depth description of the climb (with pictures) here. Excellent interview here.
A Painful Learning Curve
A painful lesson of what can happen highball bouldering, updated with video.

Fred Nicole Repeats Bishop Testpiece
According to the Bishop Bouldering Blog, the nearly 40 year old Swiss bouldering legend Fred Nicole has climbed The Swarm (V14) in Bishop, CA, adding his name to the long list of people who have climbed the problem.

2nd Mescalito Update From Kevin Jorgeson
Back from a week off in New York, Kevin Jorgeson provides another update for the Black Diamond Journal about his and Tommy Caldwell’s efforts on El Cap. El Cap report pictures of them climbing are here and here.
Adam Taylor Punches Golden Ticket At The Red
Adam Taylor opens perhaps the most difficult line at the Red River Gorge

Photo Friday
A few photo links to inspire your weekend: bouldering at Castle Rock, ID, sport climbing in Kalymnos, Greece and any post from the El Cap Report.
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Jimmy Webb In The Zone In Arkansas
Any time Chris Sharma comes through an area and leaves behind a wake of difficult looking ungraded boulder problems it’s always interesting to see what subsequent repeaters think about the problems. Take his well publicized trips to Arkansas for example. Most of the problems featured in Dosage 3 have been repeated at this point with [...]
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Spro1: That's funny Joe, since Kruk is Canadian and the ...
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Hayden Miller: I think one thing to consider is that at places li...
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Joe: Good example of the USA way, I go where I want and...
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Ramiel: Oh no, I totally agree that Maestri putting bolts ...
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Djshutthehellup: talking smack on the internet as if you're an aut...
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a-train: That should be keep "our" mountains clean and be...
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a-train: Good job boys! People who want the bolts there c...
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Video Friday – 1/27/2012
January 27, 2012
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Kruk & Kennedy Weigh In On Cerro Torre Controversy
January 26, 2012
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If Only We Could All Be Failures Like Adam Ondra
January 26, 2012
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Woods & Traversi Getting Things Done On The Frontrange
January 25, 2012
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The Plot Thickens On Cerro Torre
January 24, 2012
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Deep North: A Trip To The Arrigetch Peaks With Caldwell & Kennedy
January 23, 2012
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Video Friday – 1/20/2012
January 20, 2012
News & Notes
Understanding Patagonia
The news from the other day aside, things happening in Patagonia are usually outside my purview. It’s not that I don’t respect what climbers do there, it’s more that I have a hard time identifying with what it must be like to climb there since I’ve never done anything like it. Posts like this one from Mikey Schaefer that combine a story about a new route on the south face of Poincenot with some incredible photos sure do help though.
0 CommentsMore From Honnold On Too Big To Flail
Alex Honnold talks with PlanetMountain about his new highball in Bishop called Too Big To Flail:
3 CommentsThis might be the biggest line that I’ve seen at the Buttermilks but it’s hard to say for sure because there is so much rock out there. It’s definitely rare though to find such a high-quality line on such good rock.
Kennedy & Kruk Climb Compressor Route By “Fair Means”
A lot of sites, including Alpinist, have picked up on the update Colin Haley posted on his Facebook wall indicating that American Hayden Kennedy and Canadian Jason Kruk pulled off the long-awaited “fair-means” ascent of the Compressor Route on Cerro Torre’s Southeast Ridge in Patagonia. The line was infamously bolted using a gas-powered compressor drill by Cesare Maestri during the line’s first ascent in 1970, and this is the first time someone has successfully climbed the line without the use of this bolt ladder. No word on how they managed to pull this off without a camera crew and a slew of extra bolts to aid said camera crew. Developing…
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