Archive | October, 2009

2 5.14c FAs by Charlotte Durif

Posted October 29, 2009 at 8:08 am · Comments { 2 } ·

In the past month, France’s Charlotte Durif has done two 5.14c FAs, The Wall at Combe La Vielle and the amazing looking roof climb Pull Over at Grotte de Galetas.

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Review: Big Up Productions’ Progression DVD

Review: Big Up Productions’ Progression DVD

Posted October 28, 2009 at 7:55 am · Comments { 18 } ·

A review of Progression, the latest release from Big Up Productions

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Adam Ondra’s Hardest Route Yet

Posted October 27, 2009 at 8:00 am · Comments { 2 } ·

A likely sign of things to come, Adam Ondra has done the FA of what he considers his hardest route yet at a crag near Sardinia, Italy.  Dubbed Marina Superstar, Ondra felt the route could be as hard as 5.15a/b, but only time will tell.  Read a more in depth description of the climb (with pictures) here.  Excellent interview here.

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A Painful Learning Curve

A Painful Learning Curve

Posted October 26, 2009 at 12:04 pm · Comments { 25 } ·

A painful lesson of what can happen highball bouldering, updated with video.

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Fred Nicole Repeats Bishop Testpiece

Posted October 26, 2009 at 7:30 am · Comments { 0 } ·

According to the Bishop Bouldering Blog, the nearly 40 year old Swiss bouldering legend Fred Nicole has climbed The Swarm (V14) in Bishop, CA, adding his name to the long list of people who have climbed the problem.

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2nd Mescalito Update From Kevin Jorgeson

Posted October 23, 2009 at 1:41 pm · Comments { 5 } ·

Back from a week off in New York, Kevin Jorgeson provides another update for the Black Diamond Journal about his and Tommy Caldwell’s efforts on El Cap.  El Cap report pictures of them climbing are here and here.

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Adam Taylor Punches Golden Ticket At The Red

Adam Taylor Punches Golden Ticket At The Red

Posted October 23, 2009 at 9:45 am · Comments { 22 } · Photo: Kenneth Taylor

Adam Taylor opens perhaps the most difficult line at the Red River Gorge

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Photo Friday

Posted October 23, 2009 at 8:38 am · Comments { 1 } ·

A few photo links to inspire your weekend:  bouldering at Castle Rock, ID, sport climbing in Kalymnos, Greece and any post from the El Cap Report.

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Jimmy Webb In The Zone In Arkansas

Jimmy Webb In The Zone In Arkansas

Posted October 22, 2009 at 10:00 am · Comments { 8 } ·

Any time Chris Sharma comes through an area and leaves behind a wake of difficult looking ungraded boulder problems it’s always interesting to see what subsequent repeaters think about the problems.  Take his well publicized trips to Arkansas for example.  Most of the problems featured in Dosage 3 have been repeated at this point with [...]

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