Comments on: One Less Excuse

By: Ryan

Ryan — Wed, 09 Dec 2009 01:33:37 +0000

Not much good limestone, that’s true (unless you head south of the border); but we’ve got plenty of good sandstone. With a bit of motivation, there’s no shortage of 5.14d possibilities in the Red River Gorge’s Pendergrass-Murray. <-)

By: Paul

Paul — Tue, 24 Nov 2009 05:14:48 +0000

Lots of good points already especially that of climbing being much more mainstream. Something else to consider: unemployment in western Europe has been higher than in the US for the last 30 years (around double US numbers on average), especially among youth. Combined this with the differences in safety nets and it may be much more common to have people dedicate themselves to training.

By: B-Team

B-Team — Fri, 02 Oct 2009 13:33:10 +0000

European Being said it all.

Europe is full of limestone. Every crag I went to in Spain had a slew of 5.14s, and it seems there is always a 9a or 5 that linked them all together.

With in an hour of any crag I went to there where the equivalent of 5 Rifles (bigger and better really).

When I lived in Colorado Rifle was still at least 2 hours from most climbing populations.

Not to mention Texas is also bigger than France.

By: Narc

Narc — Wed, 23 Sep 2009 17:30:48 +0000

Thanks for sharing that, as jealousy inducing as it may be (at least from a climbing and vacation standpoint). I think point 5 is especially interesting. It seems like most crags in the U.S. are not really family friendly.

By: European being

European being — Wed, 23 Sep 2009 17:26:35 +0000

I am from Europe: There are climbers (good ones, bad ones, lazy ones, addicted ones etc.) just as in the rest of the world, but I htink there are nevertheless some differences:
1. Lots of developed crags close to the big cities. For example I have around 6000 routes + 2000 boulders within 1 hour driving around my home and there are a lot of better placed areas to live for climbing.
2. Europe is small, so it is easy and cheap to go to other areas.
3. Climbing is really booming. So many new gyms and people who start with climbing.
4. In Europe you have usually 6 weeks paid vacation (small differences in various countries)
5. Most crags are not in wilderness areas therefor easy to go with childs and family to combine climbing with social life

By: Ryan

Ryan — Tue, 22 Sep 2009 20:19:52 +0000

I would have to agree that there are not enough 5.14 grade routes in America compared to Europe, on top of that, they are probably much easier to get too on a daily bases. Take Chris Sharma for instance, he wanted a hard project close to home and he had hike all the way out to the middle of the desert to find one (Jumbo Love). Yes it was a 5.15b and not a 5.14 but I think it shows how are it is to find super difficult climbs in America that are easily approachable. Sharma had to buy an SUV just to get part of the way out to Clark Mountain. And in Europe it’s all about the grade, in America not so much. I would have to say there seems to be many more “casual” climbers here in America. If you’re a climber in Europe your more-than-likely not just a “weekender” who is looking for a little outdoor recreation, you’re a serious hardcore rock climber who is looking to continually push yourself to the next level…..kinda like Chris Sharma, but I can only speculate on this, I have never been to Europe to climb myself so this is only my perception on the difference between European and American rock climbers.

By: Zach

Zach — Tue, 22 Sep 2009 19:13:31 +0000

I want to hear more about older climbers cranking. I dare someone to climb 5.14 when you are 60 and above. Who cares what some genetically modified kid has climbed? haha.

By: justin

justin — Tue, 22 Sep 2009 18:15:19 +0000

we’re lazy, i believe that’s the answer

By: arthur

arthur — Tue, 22 Sep 2009 17:55:55 +0000

I think simple access to good climbing is the problem. To think that europeans are some how more natural at climbing is naive. There are hordes of people all over the world that could crank that hard if they had access to a good gym and the knowledge about how to focus their abilities.

The problem in America is that Boulder, CO is hogging all the good gyms (joking), and crags are few and far between that have .14d potential.

I think the point about work and vacation time is also very appropriate. In my opinion, you’d have to have access to the cash and time involved with constant climbing trips–people either too young to work but having financial help, or climber bums of all ages that either trust fund it or bum it…

Those of us that work a full-time job with 2 weeks vacation have much more difficult time when it comes to pulling down routes of even a modestly difficult grade when so much of your day is maintaining the realities of life. This isn’t even taking into consideration raising a child or that…

2 cents.

By: Joe Wilson

Joe Wilson — Tue, 22 Sep 2009 17:42:32 +0000

YOU LIE!