Last summer while I was wandering around the boulders in RMNP’s Lower Chaos Canyon I stumbled across an odd scene: there was a really strong looking guy getting very close to sending Freaks Of The Industry (V13). It wasn’t odd that someone was close to doing the problem (it had seen many repeats at that [...]
Something To Keep In Mind
Ondra, Ernst Win World Cup In Puurs, Belgium
Results and a cool pair of videos from the 2009 IFSC Lead Climbing World Cup in Puurs, Belgium
Is Europe Taking America’s Lunch on the Rocks? Yes…and No.
To wrap up the discussion from last week about the perceived superiority of European sport climbers compared to American sport climbers is this guest post by Urban Climber Editor Justin Roth
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First 5.14d For Daniel Woods
Daniel Woods graduates to the 9th grade…
2nd Ascent Of Chris Sharma’s Dreamcatcher (5.14d) By Sean McColl
Chris Sharma’s Dreamcatcher (5.14d) in Squamish, BC sees a 2nd ascent after rebuffing some of the world’s strongest climbers
Why Chris Sharma Doesn’t Boulder More
Ever wonder why you don’t hear much about Chris Sharma bouldering these days?
Climbing Video: Tommy Caldwell Bouldering In RMNP, Training For El Cap
Check out this video of Tommy Caldwell preparing for his upcoming attempt to free climb a new route on El Capitan in which he discusses his training philosophies and runs a few laps on RMNP classics.
One Less Excuse
As climbers, we often utilize a wide array of excuses for not sending our latest project. One I’ve started working in to my repertoire is that I’m simply “too old” to do something. However, recent events in Europe are quickly eroding any evidence I have that age is a limiting factor in climbing.
Alex Honnold Is The 2009 Robert Hick Bates Award Winner
Each year the American Alpine Club gives out the Robert Hicks Bates Award in memory of Bob Bates who was a “renowned explorer, alpinist, Peace Corps director, and educator, accomplished numerous first ascents in Alaska and was a member of the American expeditions to K2 in 1938 and 1953”. The award is given to “a [...]
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Spro1: That's funny Joe, since Kruk is Canadian and the ...
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Hayden Miller: I think one thing to consider is that at places li...
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Joe: Good example of the USA way, I go where I want and...
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Ramiel: Oh no, I totally agree that Maestri putting bolts ...
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Djshutthehellup: talking smack on the internet as if you're an aut...
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a-train: That should be keep "our" mountains clean and be...
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a-train: Good job boys! People who want the bolts there c...
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Video Friday – 1/27/2012
January 27, 2012
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Kruk & Kennedy Weigh In On Cerro Torre Controversy
January 26, 2012
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If Only We Could All Be Failures Like Adam Ondra
January 26, 2012
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Woods & Traversi Getting Things Done On The Frontrange
January 25, 2012
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The Plot Thickens On Cerro Torre
January 24, 2012
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Deep North: A Trip To The Arrigetch Peaks With Caldwell & Kennedy
January 23, 2012
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Video Friday – 1/20/2012
January 20, 2012
News & Notes
Understanding Patagonia
The news from the other day aside, things happening in Patagonia are usually outside my purview. It’s not that I don’t respect what climbers do there, it’s more that I have a hard time identifying with what it must be like to climb there since I’ve never done anything like it. Posts like this one from Mikey Schaefer that combine a story about a new route on the south face of Poincenot with some incredible photos sure do help though.
0 CommentsMore From Honnold On Too Big To Flail
Alex Honnold talks with PlanetMountain about his new highball in Bishop called Too Big To Flail:
3 CommentsThis might be the biggest line that I’ve seen at the Buttermilks but it’s hard to say for sure because there is so much rock out there. It’s definitely rare though to find such a high-quality line on such good rock.
Kennedy & Kruk Climb Compressor Route By “Fair Means”
A lot of sites, including Alpinist, have picked up on the update Colin Haley posted on his Facebook wall indicating that American Hayden Kennedy and Canadian Jason Kruk pulled off the long-awaited “fair-means” ascent of the Compressor Route on Cerro Torre’s Southeast Ridge in Patagonia. The line was infamously bolted using a gas-powered compressor drill by Cesare Maestri during the line’s first ascent in 1970, and this is the first time someone has successfully climbed the line without the use of this bolt ladder. No word on how they managed to pull this off without a camera crew and a slew of extra bolts to aid said camera crew. Developing…
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