Last summer while I was wandering around the boulders in RMNP’s Lower Chaos Canyon I stumbled across an odd scene: there was a really strong looking guy getting very close to sending Freaks Of The Industry (V13). It wasn’t odd that someone was close to doing the problem (it had seen many repeats at that [...]
Something To Keep In Mind
Ondra, Ernst Win World Cup In Puurs, Belgium
Results and a cool pair of videos from the 2009 IFSC Lead Climbing World Cup in Puurs, Belgium
Is Europe Taking America’s Lunch on the Rocks? Yes…and No.
To wrap up the discussion from last week about the perceived superiority of European sport climbers compared to American sport climbers is this guest post by Urban Climber Editor Justin Roth
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First 5.14d For Daniel Woods
Daniel Woods graduates to the 9th grade…
2nd Ascent Of Chris Sharma’s Dreamcatcher (5.14d) By Sean McColl
Chris Sharma’s Dreamcatcher (5.14d) in Squamish, BC sees a 2nd ascent after rebuffing some of the world’s strongest climbers
Why Chris Sharma Doesn’t Boulder More
Ever wonder why you don’t hear much about Chris Sharma bouldering these days?
Climbing Video: Tommy Caldwell Bouldering In RMNP, Training For El Cap
Check out this video of Tommy Caldwell preparing for his upcoming attempt to free climb a new route on El Capitan in which he discusses his training philosophies and runs a few laps on RMNP classics.
One Less Excuse
As climbers, we often utilize a wide array of excuses for not sending our latest project. One I’ve started working in to my repertoire is that I’m simply “too old” to do something. However, recent events in Europe are quickly eroding any evidence I have that age is a limiting factor in climbing.
Alex Honnold Is The 2009 Robert Hick Bates Award Winner
Each year the American Alpine Club gives out the Robert Hicks Bates Award in memory of Bob Bates who was a “renowned explorer, alpinist, Peace Corps director, and educator, accomplished numerous first ascents in Alaska and was a member of the American expeditions to K2 in 1938 and 1953”. The award is given to “a [...]
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Squamish 5.4+ crusher: On Sonnie's vimeo account it says the send burn t...
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Chas Ruffles: I just turned 41, I think that I just turned the p...
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Guidoprincess: Base soloing offwidth? sounds like a good way to...
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Guest: Attn: Badass (or not so) Roped Climbers Please get...
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Video Friday – 2/10/2012
February 10, 2012
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Jimmy Webb’s Climbed 99 Problems And The Island (V14) Was One
February 9, 2012
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Dean Potter On Nat Geo This Sunday
February 9, 2012
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Golden Direct Repeated By Ben Spannuth
February 8, 2012
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Great News From Red Rock
February 8, 2012
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Alex Johnson Climbs Lethal Design (V12)
February 7, 2012
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Low Gravity Week In Fontainebleau
February 6, 2012
News & Notes
Jimmy Webb’s Climbed 99 Problems And The Island (V14) Was One
Ok. Horrible title. Forgive me.
Anyway, Jimmy Webb is about a week into his first trip to Font. Last week he managed that one day ascent of Kheops Assis (V14), and according to his 8a scorecard this week he managed a relatively quick repeat of Dave Graham’s The Island a once V15 but now maybe V14 at Coquibus Rumont. This latest ascent puts him at 99 problems V10 or harder in the past 12 months which is notable for being 99 more V10s or harder than I’ve done in my entire life1.
Golden Direct Repeated By Ben Spannuth
Ben Spannuth, who recently started a blog at LT11, grabbed a rare repeat Golden Direct at the Cathedral in Southern Utah according to his 8a scorecard. Golden Direct was first done in 2008 by Joe Kinder at a suggested grade of 5.14d and was subsequently repeated by the likes of Chris Sharma and Jonathan Siegrist. Having climbed five other routes in the 5.14c/d range in the past 6 months, Spannuth felt Golden Direct warranted a grade of 5.14c.
1 CommentAlex Johnson Climbs Lethal Design (V12)
Alex Johnson gave the highballs in Bishop a break to check out the bouldering in Red Rock, Nevada where she repeated the V12 highball Lethal Design according to her 8a scorecard:
great support crew and tons of pads! long and crimpy. worked out all the moves quick and sent first burn.
Since the start of 2012 she has done some eight V10′s or harder across Yosemite, Bishop and Red Rock.
Update: Climbing.com caught up with Johnson to discuss the ascent
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