Phil Schaal Does 5th Ascent Of Jade (V15)

Phil Schaal Does 5th Ascent Of Jade (V15)

Posted August 26, 2009 at 6:09 am · Comments { 25 } ·

After taking some time to get back into shape, Phil Schaal has done the 5th ascent of Jade (V15) in Upper Chaos Canyon, RMNP.

Previous ascents were by Daniel Woods, Ty Landman, Paul Robinson and Nalle Hukkataival.

As far as I can tell, this is Schaal’s first boulder problem harder than V13 (depending on how you rank Book Of Bitter Aspects).

Nice work!

Update:  Words from Schaal himself along with stills from forthcoming footage of the send

Sticking “The Move”

Photo:  Phil Schaal Blogsite

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  • http://since-you-asked.blogspot.com/ Julian

    I know nothing about Phil, and I’m sure he can crush diamonds with his fingers, but how long until we hear arguments about downgrading Jade? Quick ascents always seem to lead to that conversation.

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  • http://climbingnarc.com Narc

    Given that Phil is no slouch and the other 4 people that have done it are 4 of the best climbers in the world it seems less prone to that sort of discussion. It is certainly worth thinking about though.

    Heck, not even 8a.nu has suggested a downgrade :)

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    • http://dreaminvertical.wordpress.com/ Luke

      Obviously grades are subjective especially when the crux is only a few moves.

      Perhaps Jade is low end V15 where Livin’ Large is mid or high end V15.

      Like all grades there is a variance within V15…

      Also this seems to be a crimp climb and all the ascents come from people with the best crimp strength in the world.

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  • Dab Patrol

    Dab.

    Yellow Flag.

    Ascent invalidated.

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    • D-bAG PATROL

      Dab Patrol-
      You are a straight up loser.
      You couldn’t carry Schaal’s crash pad.

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  • Breal

    If this is v15, then what will Rasta Man sit start be when it finally goes down?

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  • chris

    Like I said when Nalle sent Jade, I dont think it can be considered one of the hardest climbs in the world with so many repeats in such a considerably short time sinces its FA

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    • http://sickygnargnar.blogspot.com steve schultz

      It’s been climbed 5 times by 5 of the strongest boulderers in the world in two years. Not exactly a trade route. On top of that, it’s in one of the most traveled areas for climbers of that strength and skill level. Not even taking into account the number of people that have tried it and failed to do it.

      As far as I know the only people to talk of downgrading it have been people who haven’t done it. I could be wrong though.

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  • peter

    The rasta man proj will be like this problem, or like any other problem at the limit of what is possible for a motivated group of individuals. Graham tried Jade and said it was the hardest thing he’d ever tried. Woods succeeded and the floodgates opened, so to speak. I would expect the same to be true Rastaman and any number of other problems.

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  • http://www.bockino.blogspot.com Mike

    as with all boulder problems, the first ascent is the hardest. knowing it can be done makes it that much easier. I think Ty Landman actually said that about this exact problem once. doesn’t necessarily mean it deserves the downrate…

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  • http://wadedavid.com wade david

    Steve, you could be right. I have not done it, but worked the moves. I got it in two sections and falling bumping my right hand up to get ready to make the v10 move after, but I am starting to believe that it could get down rated, not saying that if I ever did Jade, that I would down rate it.

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  • B3

    Wade, if you can’t produce video of you doing the move, or uncut footage of you sending the problem, no one is going to believe you.

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  • http://wadedavid.com wade david

    Whao! what’s your problem? and why do you think I care what you and others think? I was planning on having a camera running, mostly for personal viewing and probably going to put it online, if I do it.

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  • B3

    No problem at all, I am just telling you that Jade is far more difficult than anything you have yet climbed, and if you don’t have uncut footage of it no one is going to believe you. I doesn’t matter if you care or not, it won’t change the fact that people will be skeptical if you don’t produce said footage. You have a camera, set it on a tripod and film it, and save yourself the grief. I will be the first to congratulate you and post it on my site.

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  • http://climbingnarc.com Narc

    I’ll believe you…

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  • http://www.bassforyourface.com opTIMistic

    its rad that phil did this line. but do we really need to get in a pissing match about down grading or requiring footage of people doing moves or sending problems?

    i propose a solution. lets all just go top roping.

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    • http://climbingnarc.com Narc

      YES, MORE TOPROPE VIDEOS

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      • http://www.bassforyourface.com opTIMistic

        YES. HARD TOP ROPES ARE THE FUTURE.

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        • http://sickygnargnar.blogspot.com steve schultz

          ALL about the hard TR’s! Brian, we need to get on Dyslexia!

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  • http://bloclist.com chris schulte

    yes! i’ve been saying topropes are the shizz for years!
    the next step!

    Hate is so 2008, tho some are still going strong it seems…

    ” i get older, they stay the same aaage….”

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  • campus man

    chris schulte one of the top US climbers? man you’ve crushing some french boulders and some coloado climbs. h
    how about some unedited video of yer hard sends?

    or i maybe a comment section on the ol’ bloclist?

    drink your carbs before ahard climb and put don’t forget to use the pinkie…..
    ps nice climb phil! first V15

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  • peter

    Who cares about these uncut videos? It’s just scrambling up bits of rock. Why would you doubt someone? What’s the harm if you believe them and it turns out that they actually didn’t climb up some pebble?

    Thank you for the videos Chris and others. I appreciate that you share your climbing with me. In a land of no climbing I find motivation in watching your movies. You’re psyched, I’m psyched and I’m sure that’s the purpose of your sites.

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  • http://www.BSProductions.us Brian Solano

    I’ll believe you Wade! Jamie, I think you’re taking things a little too seriously. Why would Wade ever want to lie about this??? He’s already a Boulder legend, with or without Jade. He has nothing to gain from the ascent other than his personal satisfaction.

    Go get em Wade!!! BS has your back.

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  • Pingback: Quick Sends – 9/4/09 — All Climbing

  • blkjesus

    I have to laugh at these forums, Phil is a quiet humble climber that sees a project that is worth him making the effort and he goes at it. Phils a lion when many of the people in this forum (no offense are lambs), I happen to be there and hike up with Phil when he stood under “Jade” and simply looked over at me and said “this is why Nikki and I came back to Boulder, I want this problem”. I noticed he didnt mention anything about personal glory, or even the grade of the problem, he simply saw a problem that was a challenge to him as well as his abilities; I think that is what makes Jade an amazing problem regardless of the grade. Let whomever downgrade it, shes mean and green and until people start putting in the time to do it they should keep their toungues as weak as their climbing.

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