Craig Luebben Killed In Cascades Icefall

Climbing has lost a great friend and mentor: Craig Luebben.

Luebben, inventor of the big bro and author of numerous climbing guides and how-to books, has died. He was fatally struck by icefall while climbing in the cascades.

Though a rockstar in his day, Luebben will — and should — be most remembered for his penmanship. From basic movement to complex anchors (a favorite of his), Luebben’s books have taught safe and technically sound climbing techniques to myself and thousands of others.

I remember discovering Luebben’s Mountaineers Press how-to books. I was working at the summit hut, a gear store in Tucson, Az, when I noticed two new additions to the climbing shelf (I had them practically memorized!). As I leafed through the books, I was instantly impressed by their organization and level of detail, especially the clear and detailed pictures. In the ten minutes I studied those images, I learned techniques that have made climbing experiences more enjoyable and, most importantly, safer.

Luebben wrote, I believe, out of altruism for a sport he loved. With his climbing experiences and writing gifts, Luebben could have penned a lucrative bestseller. Instead, he wrote pieces unfamiliar to most, but cherished by a few. Luebben wrote trusty climbing guides, authoritative instructional books, and gripping articles in climbing publications. Luebben chose to dedicate his innumerable gifts to the sport he loved and those that shared his passion. For we have all benefitted and our deeply grateful.

Rest in peace, Mr. Luebben.

In the early 90′s my son and I spent a weekend with Craig climbing Mt. Katahdin. It is a memory that my son and I will always cherish. Craig was an outstanding teacher, climber, photographer and wonderful guy to spend time with.

An honor to have known him, however briefly and our condolences to his family. He spoke so lovingly about his wife.