News & Notes – 07/13/2009

News & Notes – 07/13/2009

  • Vikki Weldon has done the likely first female ascent of Divison Bell (5.13d) at Squamish, BC.
  • U.S. Olympic coach Jimi Raymond Flowers was killed in a fall descending Capitol Peak, a tough 14,000+ ft. peak in Colorado.
  • The always exciting Mammut Bouldering Championships at the Summer Outdoor Retailer trade show in Salt Lake City kicks off next Monday (yes, Monday).  Scheduled to compete are big hitters Alex Johnson, Alex Puccio, Daniel Woods, Paul Robinson and Chris Sharma.  Then again, Sharma was scheduled to compete in this past weekend’s lead climbing World Cup in Chamonix and did not show.

A preview of the comp wall

  • Speaking of the World Cup in Chamonix, Paige Claassen was the only American participant, finishing in 37th place.
  • Sean McColl discusses his experience at the climbing World Championships held recently in China
  • John Bachar climbing timeline
  • Video of Kornelius Obleitner on the 3rd ascent of Anam Cara (V15) at Silvretta, Austria
  • Spraylords, the next movie from Spencer Victory looks…interesting
  • The 5th Annual Johnny and Alex Trail Day focused on building and maintaining trails in the Red River Gorge’s Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve is coming up on August 1st.  If you can’t attend, donations are a worthy substitute.  ClimbingNarc.com donated $100 to the event bringing our total donations to climbing causes to $775.

In personal climbing news, I had an excellent day at Devil’s Lake yesterday where we got 7 leads in before calling it a day.  I engaged in some reckless bold behavior by doing my hardest trad lead using a pair of borrowed shoes on a route with iffy gear that I didn’t practice ahead of time.  I botched the sequence high above my last (and pretty much only) trustworthy piece, and I was forced to downclimb a few moves before punching it to the top.  Terrifying and exhilarating at the same time…

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16 Responses to News & Notes – 07/13/2009

  1. Bill Strachan July 13, 2009 at 1:37 pm #

    Your support of the RRGCC is greatly appreciated!

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  2. Jon G. July 13, 2009 at 2:23 pm #

    UM….. Am I the only one that thinks the Trade Show wall looks INSANE?! I mean seriously. Nearly the best bouldering wall i have ever laid eyes on…

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    • sock hands July 13, 2009 at 2:28 pm #

      trade show wall looks hauntingly familar…. similar to ‘cedar spine’ photos from rocklands, eh?

      what do i win?

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  3. sweatpants July 13, 2009 at 3:49 pm #

    Are all of the walls going to be animal print themed? This wall looks kinda slutty if you ask me. I mean this thing just screams fu’k me… wait I mean climb me. I like something a little more conservative, you know leave something to the imagination. I mean seriously whats next the ‘alligater skin roof’ and the ‘zebra stripe bulge’. Lets have a little class people.

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  4. Chris Eggbert July 13, 2009 at 8:37 pm #

    Whadya get on at the Lake? Specifically which flash over iffy gear? ce

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    • Narc July 13, 2009 at 8:41 pm #

      The route in questions was Flake Route. By not practicing I meant that I didn’t figure out any of the gear ahead of time. I’d been on the route a few weeks ago on TR.

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      • Chris Eggbert July 13, 2009 at 10:05 pm #

        Sweet!!! That one looks awesome, each time I’ve wanted to get on it, someone’s been on Upper D though. Good work, looks heady near the top for sure. ce

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        • Narc July 14, 2009 at 6:04 am #

          Especially when you inexplicably botch the carefully memorized sequence!

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  5. JamesO July 14, 2009 at 1:14 am #

    This is by far the worst SLC OR wall yet. Previous years standing anywhere you could see virtually all the problems, while here it will be completely impossible, making it worse for the spectators. The stripes are not only ugly but generally this comp has ended in darkness making it even more confusing and hard to tell what is going on for those competing. Also it is not steep at all, making for much less gymnastic and powerful climbing, meaning it will be more technical which is bad for the climbers and the spectators. Why would you make the steepest part of the wall 4 feet off the ground where no one will be able to see what is happening?

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  6. Narc July 14, 2009 at 6:06 am #

    I guess I sort of assumed that there was going to be more to the wall?

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  7. Adrian July 14, 2009 at 4:45 pm #

    On the ne2c blog it states that the wall pictured is half of a wall called “Prometheus”, so it’s safe to assume there is more to come.

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    • steven July 14, 2009 at 11:31 pm #

      the wall segments laying on the ground in the photo would tend to tell the same story….but where are the buckets of paint to fix those colors?

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  8. Narc July 15, 2009 at 11:17 am #

    Sickness:

    http://ne2cproductions.com/blog/?p=647

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    • Mark July 15, 2009 at 11:23 am #

      Hot damn. That is sick. Shikadang.

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    • Mark July 17, 2009 at 11:06 am #

      When they design these new fangled walls for this comp, do they have people run through the routes or try getting around that bulge before they use it or set the routes? (Is that what Dave Graham got hurt doing in Vail?) I remember last year was pretty flat and minimalist, so setting was different, but that bulge is interesting and I wonder how you go about even thinking about a wall like that.

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  9. sock hands July 17, 2009 at 11:57 am #

    they always have forerunners, yes

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