Comments on: Impressive New V13 From Nalle Hukkataival At Mt. Evans

By: Olympics + Climbing = True Love? | ClimbHard.com

Olympics + Climbing = True Love? | ClimbHard.com — Thu, 13 Aug 2009 20:00:17 +0000

[...] and probably the trend will grow with more climbers. The following is Carlo Traversi´s comment on Narcs post about the FA of Sunseeker V13. Nalle Hakkatuival got the FA, though it was Shulte and Traversi [...]

By: chris schulte

chris schulte — Thu, 25 Jun 2009 01:50:05 +0000

amen Carlo. well said. and thank you for the psyche, the sherpa help, and the inspiration to go for this monster, almost 3 years after I first saw it.

By: Spy

Spy — Wed, 24 Jun 2009 04:38:13 +0000

As a regular climbing joe, I’m really encouraged by the comments made by Chris and Carlo. It’s through individuals like them who possess great willingness to share their love of climbing with the community, that sustains the progression of our sport.

Thanks for such a spirit of graciousness! For both of you have demonstrated to us that climbing is only one of your many strengths.

By: Narc

Narc — Wed, 24 Jun 2009 01:44:16 +0000

Well said Carlo, thanks for stopping by to share your thoughts. Looking forward to the video!

By: sock hands

sock hands — Wed, 24 Jun 2009 01:39:38 +0000

good words. psyched for the footage.

By: Carlo

Carlo — Wed, 24 Jun 2009 01:36:32 +0000

Though I must say I was bummed not to get the first ascent of this stunner, I am in no way upset at Nalle for nabbing the first. Sure I put in lots more work than him on this particular problem, but I certainly wasn’t trying to keep the line a secret. I posted pictures on my blog, specifically told him and everyone else for that matter to go climb on the thing. Beyond my own personal accomplishments, I’m interested in seeing the sport of climbing progress. This progression relies on the strongest climbers in the world having access to the climbs that could potentially elevate the sport to new levels. I do not believe in projects being kept secret (except when access is a concern). It halts progression. Their are soooo many boulders in this world, what’s the point of them sitting there, not being thoroughly enjoyed by the whole climbing community. I put a lot of work into climbing Sunseeker. I carried pads, hiked in a trad rack so that I could suss out the top, and spent at least 3 days trying to find the damn thing after hearing the rumours. However, I’m damn sure that Nalle has put in twice as much work conditioning and strengthening his mind and body to the point where he can take down hard boulders with efficiency and confidence. And that is what he did, and that is why he deserves the first. I’m just psyched to go find another line that inspires me as much as Sunseeker has. Be sure to check out the footage I’m putting together for deadpoint of the climb. Shit looks beautiful.

By: Narc

Narc — Tue, 23 Jun 2009 21:07:15 +0000

Word. I was eager to include it so I’m glad you mentioned that little nugget elsewhere.

Brave and Humble™ types like Cam Cross may try to run, but they can’t hide.

By: sock hands

sock hands — Tue, 23 Jun 2009 21:04:31 +0000

word. i’d like to clarify that my posts regarding cam are not to suggest that the line was a red tagged project stolen from him, but rather to point out that he had put a lot of time into it and had sent it from the ‘stand’ start last season since he’d never say so.

i appreciate that nalle gave props to the kids who showed him the line and assisted in the send. though we are all ultimately responsible for ourselves, a friendly team effort never hurts!

By: chris schulte

chris schulte — Tue, 23 Jun 2009 17:16:05 +0000

Nice post, Narc, and pretty darn complete.
To get right to it, Nalle’s ascent is nothing short of very impressive. After flashing the stand start, and then taking a flat-out flop from the lip at 20 or so feet, he got himself together and sent, with beta that differed from Carlo’s, which differs from mine. Yes, Carlo got really close to the FA only a few minutes before. Yes, I got to the jug and the end of the “really hard” climbing on my first day, bailing sans spot… Can’t say I feel robbed. This is an outstanding line, and though it’s great to make the FA of such a prize, and to be forever attached to it, I’m just glad it was a person as decent as Nalle, and not some awful hater who wants the line for their own aggrandizement. You go up to the line, you can’t help but try it. Keep the energy good, don’t hate people off problems so you can climb it ten minutes before them, and if the FA is that important, keep your gob shut and get it done quietly. It sure sat there long enough! No one is ever at fault, we are individuals responsible for the effort and risk that we invest in any pursuit; that’s why we climb, instead of play football, or whatever. No one to blame.
Salutations to Mr. Hukkataival.