Comments on: News & Notes – 05/20/2009

By: Narc

Narc — Fri, 22 May 2009 12:21:20 +0000

Thanks for stopping by to comment Matt!

I think anyone questioning your style doesn’t really understand the nature of this route. Nice work!

By: Mark

Mark — Thu, 21 May 2009 16:42:10 +0000

Great send! I’ve always thought, like you said, its not about the clips but about the moves and the climb. Anything you needed to do within reason for your safety is completely legitimate. Hope you didn’t feel like anyone was attacking your send, because its awesome. Good job Matt.

By: Matt Wilder

Matt Wilder — Thu, 21 May 2009 13:26:34 +0000

The video is of my send of the route. The people who have clipped the second bolt have clipped it after making the move out right at which point the climbing is much easier. For a route like this, clipping is really not the focus so I just chose to have the second bolt clipped when I started. For me it was all about the climbing – the raw moves – and the rope was there just to protect me. I think bouldering it would be great and I would have liked to do it in this style. Unfortunately, you need tons of pads to make it safe and since I flew out to Rumney from Colorado, organizing the pad situation would have been a nightmare. Many of the other ascents of the route have been in this same style.

By: Mark

Mark — Wed, 20 May 2009 20:37:10 +0000

Thats true too. Sorry. I failed to mention the whole clipping the first bolt. I figure, if you’re climbing at that level, I’d give you leeway on that. I know Rhoads would say otherwise, but thats okay.

By: Narc

Narc — Wed, 20 May 2009 19:30:43 +0000

Closer to the Red???

By: Paul Campbell

Paul Campbell — Wed, 20 May 2009 18:47:55 +0000

I thought there were assents done of the Fly with only the first bolt clipped?

Either way it’s impossible to clip the second bolt so I guess it doesn’t matter.

And Brian…. Oak Creek hehe. Your moving even farther from climbing!

By: Luke

Luke — Wed, 20 May 2009 18:42:08 +0000

I believe both Dave Graham and Daniel Woods clipped the 2nd bolt on lead. Either way you still clip the anchor so its not a full “TR” . The landing not so great and multi leveled since you start off a large block.

By: Mark

Mark — Wed, 20 May 2009 17:56:59 +0000

To my knowledge, only Jason Kehl and Kevin Jorgeson have bouldered The Fly. Doing it with a very very very very very lose TR is an accepted way of doing this highball because the landing is dangerously horrible.

By: Ian Mason

Ian Mason — Wed, 20 May 2009 17:56:54 +0000

Ooops didn’t realize the only way to send this is by solo or TR. Guess it’s a send.

By: Ian Mason

Ian Mason — Wed, 20 May 2009 17:51:24 +0000

I’m confused . . . Is the video on Matt Wilder’s blog his actual send or did he send it boulder style? On lead? Or just TR? Does that count as a send?