Comments on: Hard Onsights & New Projects For Chris Sharma In China http://climbingnarc.com/2009/04/hard-onsights-new-projects-for-chris-sharma-in-china/ So obsessed with climbing it hurts... Thu, 24 May 2012 15:07:16 +0000 hourly 1 http://wordpress.org/?v=3.3.2 By: Mark http://climbingnarc.com/2009/04/hard-onsights-new-projects-for-chris-sharma-in-china/comment-page-1/#comment-5273 Mark Sat, 11 Apr 2009 18:43:51 +0000 http://climbingnarc.com/?p=3216#comment-5273 Exactly. As a preface, I personally don't do the whole trad thing, because I don't have the gear and I don't have that exact knowledge base to do those climbs, and I am not a route person to begin with. However, I think from a purist standpoint, though sport and trad are two different disciplines in and of themselves, for routes, if you are going to go with having pro, properly used trad gear will (generally) cause less damage to the rock. Though sport climbing necessitates holes, a hole is a hole is a hole, that is true. I will say, the idea of drilling holds, or chipping routes to "improve" the route is despicable, but when a bolt is gone, there is still a hole. Sorry to ramble, I understand both sides, and tried to bring a lot of it together, but this brings me back to Rhoad's manifesto or any ethics manifesto which, would definitely need more time and space to explain all this. Exactly. As a preface, I personally don’t do the whole trad thing, because I don’t have the gear and I don’t have that exact knowledge base to do those climbs, and I am not a route person to begin with. However, I think from a purist standpoint, though sport and trad are two different disciplines in and of themselves, for routes, if you are going to go with having pro, properly used trad gear will (generally) cause less damage to the rock. Though sport climbing necessitates holes, a hole is a hole is a hole, that is true. I will say, the idea of drilling holds, or chipping routes to “improve” the route is despicable, but when a bolt is gone, there is still a hole.

Sorry to ramble, I understand both sides, and tried to bring a lot of it together, but this brings me back to Rhoad’s manifesto or any ethics manifesto which, would definitely need more time and space to explain all this.

]]> By: David http://climbingnarc.com/2009/04/hard-onsights-new-projects-for-chris-sharma-in-china/comment-page-1/#comment-5272 David Sat, 11 Apr 2009 18:20:30 +0000 http://climbingnarc.com/?p=3216#comment-5272 I see, hole is a hole no matter what. A hole that defaces the natural structure of the rock. So what are sport climbers options because there are a lot of routes trad gear can't go that sport bolts can? Top rope down and then go at it from the bottom? I see, hole is a hole no matter what. A hole that defaces the natural structure of the rock.
So what are sport climbers options because there are a lot of routes trad gear can’t go that sport bolts can? Top rope down and then go at it from the bottom?

]]> By: anthony http://climbingnarc.com/2009/04/hard-onsights-new-projects-for-chris-sharma-in-china/comment-page-1/#comment-5271 anthony Sat, 11 Apr 2009 18:09:40 +0000 http://climbingnarc.com/?p=3216#comment-5271 David, I think Erik's point isnt so much related to what the hole is used for, but rather, the existence of a hole period. How do we determine that one sort of hole is better than another? Look at it from the rock's perspective or from a non-climbers perspective...it's purely a matter of personal style.. David, I think Erik’s point isnt so much related to what the hole is used for, but rather, the existence of a hole period. How do we determine that one sort of hole is better than another? Look at it from the rock’s perspective or from a non-climbers perspective…it’s purely a matter of personal style..

]]> By: erik http://climbingnarc.com/2009/04/hard-onsights-new-projects-for-chris-sharma-in-china/comment-page-1/#comment-5268 erik Sat, 11 Apr 2009 03:59:51 +0000 http://climbingnarc.com/?p=3216#comment-5268 this is not a debate on the definition of sport climbing. its about a hole being drilled into rock. for a finger or a bolt. if your looking for "pure" difficulty of movement. go free solo or boulder. as far as bolt not making a route easier. try not using them on your warm up that you have dialed. bet it wont feel so "easy". like i said befor, to drill a hole into rock for a finger or a bolt is still DRILLING a HOLE into the ROCK. just so one can use either one to get to he top. this is not a debate on the definition of sport climbing. its about a hole being drilled into rock. for a finger or a bolt. if your looking for “pure” difficulty of movement. go free solo or boulder. as far as bolt not making a route easier. try not using them on your warm up that you have dialed. bet it wont feel so “easy”. like i said befor, to drill a hole into rock for a finger or a bolt is still DRILLING a HOLE into the ROCK. just so one can use either one to get to he top.

]]> By: David http://climbingnarc.com/2009/04/hard-onsights-new-projects-for-chris-sharma-in-china/comment-page-1/#comment-5267 David Sat, 11 Apr 2009 03:11:58 +0000 http://climbingnarc.com/?p=3216#comment-5267 In regards to sport climbing: clipping preset bolts is what makes a sport route challenging in a pure difficulty of movement sense. Traditional climbing takes away from an individuals ultimate potential to pull off moves. Bolts don't make a climb any easier, they make it possible to even use that route. Re: erik, a hole for your finger makes the route easier, one for a bolt merely makes an awesome line safe enough to pursue. In regards to sport climbing: clipping preset bolts is what makes a sport route challenging in a pure difficulty of movement sense. Traditional climbing takes away from an individuals ultimate potential to pull off moves. Bolts don’t make a climb any easier, they make it possible to even use that route.

Re: erik, a hole for your finger makes the route easier, one for a bolt merely makes an awesome line safe enough to pursue.

]]> By: erik http://climbingnarc.com/2009/04/hard-onsights-new-projects-for-chris-sharma-in-china/comment-page-1/#comment-5265 erik Fri, 10 Apr 2009 22:07:06 +0000 http://climbingnarc.com/?p=3216#comment-5265 "some guy" makes a sense. whats the differance between a hole for a bolt or one for your fingers. if you dont like a manufactured hold, then dont use it. just don't clip the bolt either. it wasn't there befor. there's lots of routes that are natural, i.e. trad. go do one of those. i hear they can be kinda hard. “some guy” makes a sense. whats the differance between a hole for a bolt or one for your fingers. if you dont like a manufactured hold, then dont use it. just don’t clip the bolt either. it wasn’t there befor. there’s lots of routes that are natural, i.e. trad. go do one of those. i hear they can be kinda hard.

]]> By: Joe http://climbingnarc.com/2009/04/hard-onsights-new-projects-for-chris-sharma-in-china/comment-page-1/#comment-5264 Joe Fri, 10 Apr 2009 19:44:49 +0000 http://climbingnarc.com/?p=3216#comment-5264 Dear Some Guy - Please make sure to renew your gym membership so that you can stay away from our crags. Thanks in advance. Dear Some Guy -

Please make sure to renew your gym membership so that you can stay away from our crags. Thanks in advance.

]]> By: Some Guy http://climbingnarc.com/2009/04/hard-onsights-new-projects-for-chris-sharma-in-china/comment-page-1/#comment-5263 Some Guy Fri, 10 Apr 2009 17:58:45 +0000 http://climbingnarc.com/?p=3216#comment-5263 I understand that chipping on routes is a HUGE no no...but if you think about it... a sport climb is one huge "chipfest". Now I'm not saying that chipping is right or wrong. I'm just wondering how much of a difference does it make if you drill one more hole in the rock for a hold....you already drilled a bunch of holes to bolt the thing..... I understand that chipping on routes is a HUGE no no…but if you think about it… a sport climb is one huge “chipfest”. Now I’m not saying that chipping is right or wrong. I’m just wondering how much of a difference does it make if you drill one more hole in the rock for a hold….you already drilled a bunch of holes to bolt the thing…..

]]> By: Narc http://climbingnarc.com/2009/04/hard-onsights-new-projects-for-chris-sharma-in-china/comment-page-1/#comment-5262 Narc Fri, 10 Apr 2009 14:57:51 +0000 http://climbingnarc.com/?p=3216#comment-5262 In all fairness they did talk about it when the controversy first broke last year. Unfortunately the thread about it was lost when they moved to their new blog setup. You'll also notice that despite AG being the hardest route they filmed in China it was basically left out of Dosage V. In all fairness they did talk about it when the controversy first broke last year. Unfortunately the thread about it was lost when they moved to their new blog setup.

You’ll also notice that despite AG being the hardest route they filmed in China it was basically left out of Dosage V.

]]> By: David http://climbingnarc.com/2009/04/hard-onsights-new-projects-for-chris-sharma-in-china/comment-page-1/#comment-5261 David Fri, 10 Apr 2009 01:01:46 +0000 http://climbingnarc.com/?p=3216#comment-5261 Sweet! I really enjoy hearing about Sharma's latest climbing adventures. I agree with Dom, chipping is SO ridiculous, it's NOT the answer, more like "French Idiot". Sharma's send without using that hold is awesome! AND proves that climbing is about conforming your body and skills to the route, not the other way around. Sweet! I really enjoy hearing about Sharma’s latest climbing adventures. I agree with Dom, chipping is SO ridiculous, it’s NOT the answer, more like “French Idiot”. Sharma’s send without using that hold is awesome! AND proves that climbing is about conforming your body and skills to the route, not the other way around.

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