Comments on: Five Ten Project First Impressions

By: Narc

Narc — Thu, 17 Sep 2009 16:52:51 +0000

Thanks for sharing your experiences Lee. I haven’t had much chance to use these shoes yet, but I hope to use them a bunch in Hueco later this year. I’ll be interested to see if I have the same durability problems.

By: Lee

Lee — Thu, 17 Sep 2009 03:24:38 +0000

I have a pretty narrow foot so these fit perfectly, and by the time they were completley worn in, they were the most comfortable agressive shoe I’ve ever had. I disagree with a lot of the reviews saying it was a good smearing shoe. Over time I felt the rubber became a bit slippery. Amazing for overhangs though. My biggest problem however, was that after only three and a half months of use, a pencil sized hole was formed right at the toe. Honestly, if you’re going with five ten, I’d recoment the dragons, which I have almost no complaint.

By: Lynn

Lynn — Mon, 13 Apr 2009 17:36:08 +0000

Okay, now I’ve been on rock with them…unfortunately not steep rock. I’m sure my feet will get stronger, but for the most part I could almost feel the rock too much! Ouch! Again, my feet will get stronger…Any small, sharp feet were rather painful. I tried using them in a heel/toe jam, and due to the lack of stiffness in the midsole, my foot repeatedly came out…put on an Evlov Pontas and it stuck fine….my feet WILL get stronger. As far as is this shoe good for a girl, yeah, I’d say so…these are rather slim in the toe box compared to most Five Ten shoes. The heel isn’t ridiculously deep, so the average shallow female heel should fit it fine. I DO love them on the overhangs…though I’m still finding it difficult to heel hook on thin, shallow holds…the heel is pretty round & smooth, with no notches to catch the hold on. >:( maybe my toes will get strong enough to grab them instead.

By: Jessi

Jessi — Sun, 12 Apr 2009 19:48:29 +0000

So do you think these shoes are suitable for women? How long have you been climbing for. They look awesome and I am looking for a more overhanging compatible shoe but am just not sure?

By: Narc

Narc — Thu, 09 Apr 2009 17:29:57 +0000

What are you waiting for!??!

By: Lynn

Lynn — Thu, 09 Apr 2009 17:27:18 +0000

I’ve got wide feet–girl’s feet, but wide anyhow, and they fit great…aside from them only being sized as small as a womens 5, (I’m really a 4.5) they feel great! I am a bit worried about too much stretch, as they are leather…and I found that heel hooking in them, really pulling on small stuff with the side of the heel, isn’t that great…the rubber just seems to slide instead of grab…although this was on plastic. I have yet to get them on rock.

By: sock hands

sock hands — Tue, 07 Apr 2009 16:02:46 +0000

nice thing about online reviews is that you’re not limited by word count and you can post follow-ups.

so, autoface: plz post here again when you get some more feelings about the durability, etc.

i thinks that the narc and steve will do the same.

whenever the speedster trickles down my way, i shall do the same.

By: automated

automated — Tue, 07 Apr 2009 14:20:49 +0000

so far these shoes rip it up on the steep stuff. never had shoes so sensitive… ever (it’s almost creepy how soft, sensitive, and sock like these things are). this is due to the new rubber, which is only 2mm thick (check your current shoes — they’re probably around twice that thick). plenty sticky, too. HOWEVER, not good for face routes — feels you could bust through the rubber standing on a pointy crystal. reminds me of the old VXs (lace-ups), which 5.10 put out as a competition shoe in the 90s — they were so soft and thin that they’d wear out too quickly for normal use. only for the comps and the readpoint burns. similar story here, except you can use these for steep routes and boulder problems pretty consistently. verdict is out on the heel — feels a tad shallow to me. also, they’re a pretty narrow shoe — can imagine someone with a really wide foot being hosed trying to get into these puppies. for steep, hard climbing, i’d give em an 8/9 out of 10. no idea about durability or other longer-term questions.

By: sock hands

sock hands — Mon, 06 Apr 2009 18:45:55 +0000

narc stole my post! so, in the great rockemsockem shoe smashfest, this is how the narc will play: dirty!

IT’S SO ON, BITCH! MY ARMY WILL MARCH ON YOU AS SILENT AS NINJAS, BUT IN NUMBERS MORE AWESOME THAN A SIAFU ATTACK!!!!

By: Narc

Narc — Mon, 06 Apr 2009 17:20:20 +0000

It’s definitely a pretty unforgiving design if you have wide feet. I feel like my feet are right on the border of what will actually fit comfortably into the shoe.