Black Lung

Black Lung

Posted April 20, 2009 at 8:12 am · Comments { 4 } ·

With the Spring season at Joe’s Valley in full effect lately, Joe’s best known hard problem has been receiving a fair amount of attention lately with Jamie Emerson working it and Matt Wilder sending.  The problem is, of course, Black Lung (V13).

First climbed by the legendary Ben Moon during a roadtrip to the U.S. back in 2000, Black Lung is a sought after tick for anyone able to climb at that grade.  What that grade actually is seems to be up for debate as a quick perusal of 8a.nu reveals a few people registering it as V12 as well as comments about new beta making it easier.

Regardless, as an observer Black Lung appears to be the perfect boulder.  The problem is short, it climbs a nice looking piece of black rock and a successful ascent requires the perfect near perfect execution of a few very difficult moves.  I say “near perfect” because of the video Matt Wilder posted of his recent send:


Nice stick!

Of course, this entire post was just an excuse to post this classic video put together when Ben Moon did the original FA.  So classic…

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  • http://johnclimbrok.blogspot.com J V

    I have to disagree with your inclusion of “short” as a factor contributing to a “perfect boulder.” IMO, the tall problems with a lot of moves are the more likely and more classic classics. But then again, I do spend a significant amount of time on ropes…

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    • http://climbingnarc.com Narc

      For me short = less time to screw things up. I think “pure” would have been a better choice of words maybe.

      You probably also spend a significant amount of time in Yosemite, a place that is littered with very tall proud lines. Most of us don’t even know what climbing problems such as those found in the Valley are like!

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      • http://johnclimbrok.blogspot.com J V

        In response, I would explain it in the same terms used by my (California’s) Governator when discussing what lifting weights is like in the movie Pumping Iron. If you haven’t seen it, you should. If you haven’t bouldered in Yosemite…well, there aren’t any boulders there.

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  • http://www.blackcore.com tim

    the bouldering in the valley is pretty amazing, but damn, they’re all effing high. :D

    THEN you turn around and glance at el captain, and get a good lesson in how things are relative.

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