Archive | January, 2009
Old Devil’s Lake Bouldering Photos: The Keymaker (V11?)

Old Devil’s Lake Bouldering Photos: The Keymaker (V11?)

Not all the bouldering on the West Bluff at Devil’s Lake is spread out and hard to find. A short hike down the tumbled rocks trail followed by a brief foray in to the talus will bring you to the boulder that is home to Wisconsin’s (likely) hardest problem, The Keymaker.

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Old Devil’s Lake Bouldering Photos: Jenga (V6 or 7?)

Old Devil’s Lake Bouldering Photos: Jenga (V6 or 7?)

When we were moving last year, I was very psyched to stumble across a series of pictures from the spring of 2003 I didn’t remember taking.  Among the pile were several pictures of the bouldering in the talus at the base of Devil’s Lake’s West Bluff.  While the bouldering along the West Bluff is less [...]

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Joe’s Valley Trip Beta Needed

Joe’s Valley Trip Beta Needed

Mrs. Narc and I are in the process of picking out a destination for a Spring break trip in mid-April.  I really wanted to go to Hueco, but several factors have pointed us in the direction of Joe’s Valley instead.  It is within driving distance (sort of), both of us have never been, the weather [...]

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Masters Of Stone VI Preview: Hans & Yuji Nose Speed Record Footage

Masters Of Stone VI Preview: Hans & Yuji Nose Speed Record Footage

The sixth installment of the legendary Masters of Stone series of climbing movies is slated to be released this spring.  Previous installments have famously chronicled the exploits of the late Dan Osman as well as a young Chris Sharma climbing Surf Safari (thought to be 5.14a at the time).  Here is what the Masters Of [...]

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Daniel Woods Arkansas Bouldering Update

Daniel Woods Arkansas Bouldering Update

Since we last checked in, Daniel Woods has continued his exploration of the sandstone blocs in and around Arkansas’ Horseshoe Canyon Ranch.  Recent noteworthy ascents include a new V13 called PCP which adds some new climbing into the finish of Chunk Up The Deuce (V13) and a new V11 called Stackin’ Paper in Stack Rock, AR. [...]

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Kevin Jorgeson Climbs The FA Of Buttermilks Highball Ambrosia

Kevin Jorgeson has bouldered/soloed a new line on the east wall of the incredible Grandpa Peabody boulder in the Buttermilks of Bishop, CA.  Big Up was on hand to film and the Bishop Bouldering blog and UKClimbing have more background as well.   Sounds very proud!

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Update On Kentucky’s Bridge To Nowhere

Update On Kentucky’s Bridge To Nowhere

Just a quick post to update everyone on a situation that was brewing last year.  You’ll remember that there was some talk about building a bridge through one of the Red River Gorge’s more popular areas Muir Valley.  Thanks to a positive response from over 100 climbers it looks like this is unlikely to happen. [...]

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Cult Followings Not Paying Off Like They Used To, Alpinist Magazine Sold For $71K

Cult Followings Not Paying Off Like They Used To, Alpinist Magazine Sold For $71K

Details on the buyer who paid $71,000 for the assets of Alpinist Magazine are starting to emerge.

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Climbing Video:  Brad Weaver Sending “Fifty Words For Pump Right” (5.14c)

Climbing Video: Brad Weaver Sending “Fifty Words For Pump Right” (5.14c)

Anytime there is an up and coming climber from the midwest, you KNOW I am going to pimp them hard. Brad Weaver is a climber from Bloomington, IL that had a great 2008. Most notably he repeated Fifty Words For Pump Right (5.14c) and he did the 2nd ascent of Joe Kinder’s Southern Smoke (5.14c), both routes at Kentucky’s Red River Gorge. Here is some video of Weaver’s send of Fifty Words (in the summer no less!)

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