The Momentum Video Magazine has posted a clip from Best Of The West of Chris Sharma repeating Fred Nicole’s Hueco Tanks testpiece Esperanza (V14). Beyond the climbing being impressive to watch, the clip sparked a couple of questions in my mind.
Video: George Ullrich Gaia (E8 6c) Flash Attempt
Check out this incredible video of Brit George Ullrich attempting to flash Gaia.
Not Much News, Mostly Just Notes – 12/19/2008
Since no other news this week looks that impressive compared with 5.15 sport climbing FAs, here are a few links.
Nameless Arete
The so-called Nameless Arete (V4) at Governor Dodge is one of those problems that can be really frustrating. Based on its grade it shouldn’t be that hard (in the grand scheme of things). However, it requires a certain amount of subtlety and refinement of beta that can be hard to figure out. Especially for me…
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Big Sale At Big Up Productions
Better late than never, Big Up Productions is running a 15% off sale on everything in their store for all you procrastinators out there. That means you can get the Dosage Box set (5 DVDs and a soundtrack) for only $84 plus shipping! Not a bad deal at all. Order by Friday for Christmas delivery.
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Chris Sharma Sends ‘Golpe De Estado’ (5.15b?) In Siurana
Chris Sharma ups the ante in Spain. UPDATED
Issue 2 Of Deadpoint Magazine Now Available
Issue 2 of Deadpoint Magazine is now available at the Deadpoint Mag site. Here are a few highlights of what is in Issue 2: Interviews with Alex Puccio and Ty Landman Video* of Natasha Barnes sending The Force (V9) in Yosemite, CA. Article by Pete Ward about sex as it relates to climbing and advertising [...]
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Charlietrees: Your foot finding a human P Bomb is a sure way of ...
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Daniel: Really cool edit. One of the better climbing short...
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Joe Corrado: #1 on my destination list...mind will forever be b...
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Narc: My mind is still blown......
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Pat C: He's also really close on Midnight Express, go Yv...
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Narc: 33 years 9 months 27 days if you want to be specif...
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CarlosFromPhilly: Any idea how old he is? So awesome to know that h...
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When In Doubt Pack It Out
May 16, 2012
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Gravelle Repeats Echale (V14)
May 16, 2012
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El Cap Report Returns For Spring 2012
May 15, 2012
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2nd Ascent Of Mystic Stylez (V15) By Dave MacLeod
May 15, 2012
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Hayden Kennedy Climbing Carbondale Short Bus (5.14-)
May 14, 2012
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Ashima Hits The New York Times
May 13, 2012
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Video Friday – 5/11/2012
May 11, 2012
News & Notes
When In Doubt Pack It Out
I don’t know about you, but I always try my best to climb close to an actual bathroom. In case you don’t, the Access Fund has a nice refresher on what to do when nature calls.
Gravelle Repeats Echale (V14)
I guess it shouldn’t be surprising that with training like this that Canadian Yves Gravelle was able to climb his first V14 in Daniel Woods’ Echale in Clear Creek Canyon according to his 8a scorecard.
El Cap Report Returns For Spring 2012
So, listen up Cubicle Pukes!! Put down your work, clear the room, put on some cool tunes, and come with me to the Valley of your dreams, in this, the first of many Reports to follow.
Yep, the El Cap Report is back.





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