Comments on: Sendtrain Heating Up In Hueco Tanks http://climbingnarc.com/2008/12/sendtrain-heating-up-in-hueco-tanks/ So obsessed with climbing it hurts... Sun, 12 Feb 2012 00:29:00 +0000 hourly 1 http://wordpress.org/?v=3.3.1 By: Narc http://climbingnarc.com/2008/12/sendtrain-heating-up-in-hueco-tanks/comment-page-1/#comment-11700 Narc Wed, 23 Dec 2009 00:54:25 +0000 http://climbingnarc.com/?p=1998#comment-11700 Hmm, I had never heard of this movie before. Is it worth getting?? Hmm, I had never heard of this movie before. Is it worth getting??

]]> By: Rocco http://climbingnarc.com/2008/12/sendtrain-heating-up-in-hueco-tanks/comment-page-1/#comment-11699 Rocco Wed, 23 Dec 2009 00:50:24 +0000 http://climbingnarc.com/?p=1998#comment-11699 Sock Hands wrote."gone are the days of climbing a v10 as being impressive." My question is, what is more impressive: Slopping your way through V13, or climbing V10 in such a way that you make it look like it could be V1? I think that most people will go with the 8B send, and it is my personal opinion that that is wrong. Has anyone seen the end of the climbing film "Fuse", where Fred Nicole is climbing and unnamed problem while he narrates about the importance of Hueco in the background, and it looks like he is warming up?.....that's the FA of Terre De Sienne. Sock Hands wrote.”gone are the days of climbing a v10 as being impressive.”

My question is, what is more impressive: Slopping your way through V13, or climbing V10 in such a way that you make it look like it could be V1? I think that most people will go with the 8B send, and it is my personal opinion that that is wrong.
Has anyone seen the end of the climbing film “Fuse”, where Fred Nicole is climbing and unnamed problem while he narrates about the importance of Hueco in the background, and it looks like he is warming up?…..that’s the FA of Terre De Sienne.

]]> By: Narc http://climbingnarc.com/2008/12/sendtrain-heating-up-in-hueco-tanks/comment-page-1/#comment-11697 Narc Tue, 22 Dec 2009 22:13:47 +0000 http://climbingnarc.com/?p=1998#comment-11697 This phenomena is hardly limited to the strongmos out there as I am guilty of doing this myself. I think I've done a good job of fighting off the mentality of just trying to do problems by any means necessary because they are given a hard (for me) number, but there is always room for improvement. My penchant for leeching beta to attain a quick send is fairly well known. I am not proud of this, but I am improving. I go back and forth in my head about the benefits of keeping a scorecard on 8a. It provides a good tool for inciting competitive banter amongst friends and I like visualizing what I've done over the years. However, the visualization aspect almost becomes addicting in that I feel the need to always do something new when I'm out climbing to have something new for the scorecard even if it means climbing less fun problems. This phenomena is hardly limited to the strongmos out there as I am guilty of doing this myself. I think I’ve done a good job of fighting off the mentality of just trying to do problems by any means necessary because they are given a hard (for me) number, but there is always room for improvement. My penchant for leeching beta to attain a quick send is fairly well known. I am not proud of this, but I am improving.

I go back and forth in my head about the benefits of keeping a scorecard on 8a. It provides a good tool for inciting competitive banter amongst friends and I like visualizing what I’ve done over the years. However, the visualization aspect almost becomes addicting in that I feel the need to always do something new when I’m out climbing to have something new for the scorecard even if it means climbing less fun problems.

]]> By: Rocco http://climbingnarc.com/2008/12/sendtrain-heating-up-in-hueco-tanks/comment-page-1/#comment-11695 Rocco Tue, 22 Dec 2009 21:42:26 +0000 http://climbingnarc.com/?p=1998#comment-11695 I agree with Craig to some degree. I think the negative feelings brought about by situations like the one Craig experienced goes to the simple source: The deterioration of style and ethics in modern climbing. It seems more and more commonplace everyday for climbers to care more about getting to the top of the hardest route/problem possible as fast as they possibly can. The methods used to get there "style" (even things like the surroundings, aestetics, etc) seem to be of diminishing importance. Sites like 8a make this obvious. If you look at top climbers score cards and comments you often see things like "first try from the start". It doesn't matter that they tried the crux 400 times before going to the beginning of the problem for their "psuedo flash". They obviously feel the need to make their already impressive V13 send even more impressive through the terminology they choose to use. That is just a single example of a mindset that is very prominent in "modern climbing". Is that what you were getting at Craig? I agree with Craig to some degree. I think the negative feelings brought about by situations like the one Craig experienced goes to the simple source: The deterioration of style and ethics in modern climbing. It seems more and more commonplace everyday for climbers to care more about getting to the top of the hardest route/problem possible as fast as they possibly can. The methods used to get there “style” (even things like the surroundings, aestetics, etc) seem to be of diminishing importance. Sites like 8a make this obvious. If you look at top climbers score cards and comments you often see things like “first try from the start”. It doesn’t matter that they tried the crux 400 times before going to the beginning of the problem for their “psuedo flash”. They obviously feel the need to make their already impressive V13 send even more impressive through the terminology they choose to use. That is just a single example of a mindset that is very prominent in “modern climbing”. Is that what you were getting at Craig?

]]> By: Chris http://climbingnarc.com/2008/12/sendtrain-heating-up-in-hueco-tanks/comment-page-1/#comment-4373 Chris Sat, 10 Jan 2009 14:13:58 +0000 http://climbingnarc.com/?p=1998#comment-4373 All of us chase grades to some extent or another. Climbing is a strange sport. In running, if you run the same circuit every day, you know how fast you can do it and you know when you improve. In a road race, there is a clear winner. Same for soccer or whatever ball-sport. Not so in climbing. So folks look to the numbers to see if they are improving. Big deal. Young pups who are trying to be sponsored and make a living resort to self-promotion. Not so different from many other pursuits. But seeing someone send something hard after watching it on an iPod should be inspiring, not a bummer. Anyway, $0.02. All of us chase grades to some extent or another. Climbing is a strange sport. In running, if you run the same circuit every day, you know how fast you can do it and you know when you improve. In a road race, there is a clear winner. Same for soccer or whatever ball-sport. Not so in climbing. So folks look to the numbers to see if they are improving. Big deal. Young pups who are trying to be sponsored and make a living resort to self-promotion. Not so different from many other pursuits. But seeing someone send something hard after watching it on an iPod should be inspiring, not a bummer. Anyway, $0.02.

]]> By: Daniel http://climbingnarc.com/2008/12/sendtrain-heating-up-in-hueco-tanks/comment-page-1/#comment-4372 Daniel Sat, 10 Jan 2009 06:38:23 +0000 http://climbingnarc.com/?p=1998#comment-4372 Craig . . . you seem to be making a ridiculous amount of assumptions about the motivations and intentions of this climber. Why would this bother you? He wanted to climb The Feather, he got some beta for his flash attempt (does the beta source really matter?), and then sent after a few tries. Why the hell would that be a "huge downer" for you? What makes you so sure that he doesn't "really care about climbing?" Just trying to understand your viewpoint. Craig . . . you seem to be making a ridiculous amount of assumptions about the motivations and intentions of this climber. Why would this bother you? He wanted to climb The Feather, he got some beta for his flash attempt (does the beta source really matter?), and then sent after a few tries. Why the hell would that be a “huge downer” for you? What makes you so sure that he doesn’t “really care about climbing?” Just trying to understand your viewpoint.

]]> By: Craig Copelin http://climbingnarc.com/2008/12/sendtrain-heating-up-in-hueco-tanks/comment-page-1/#comment-4371 Craig Copelin Sat, 10 Jan 2009 04:58:54 +0000 http://climbingnarc.com/?p=1998#comment-4371 I saw some of this repeat and spray mentality on my last trip to Hueco. It was my first time visiting the feather, and I was pretty psyched to see it. I had no chance of climbing it, but I wanted to at least see it. While there, a climber who will remain nameless, pulled out his ipod touch before looking at the climb, watched the beta from Best of the West four or five times. Got up almost flashed it, then sent after a couple more tries. I was impressed, but at the same time I was dismayed. I have been climbing at Hueco for twenty years, and I have always loved the scene there. Unfortunately this was a huge downer for me. I wonder is this person a good climber? or are they merely strong with a good memory? I personally do not see many new problems coming from this generation. A few of them will break out of the look at me mentality, but not many. Hueco may be better for it though, as it will leave projects for the people who really care about climbing. I saw some of this repeat and spray mentality on my last trip to Hueco. It was my first time visiting the feather, and I was pretty psyched to see it. I had no chance of climbing it, but I wanted to at least see it. While there, a climber who will remain nameless, pulled out his ipod touch before looking at the climb, watched the beta from Best of the West four or five times. Got up almost flashed it, then sent after a couple more tries. I was impressed, but at the same time I was dismayed. I have been climbing at Hueco for twenty years, and I have always loved the scene there. Unfortunately this was a huge downer for me. I wonder is this person a good climber? or are they merely strong with a good memory?

I personally do not see many new problems coming from this generation. A few of them will break out of the look at me mentality, but not many. Hueco may be better for it though, as it will leave projects for the people who really care about climbing.

]]> By: Narc http://climbingnarc.com/2008/12/sendtrain-heating-up-in-hueco-tanks/comment-page-1/#comment-4304 Narc Mon, 05 Jan 2009 13:27:28 +0000 http://climbingnarc.com/?p=1998#comment-4304 A big thanks to everyone for their thoughts! I would like to say that "vanity" probably was not the correct word to use. Maybe notoriety, attention getting or something along those lines would have been a better word. A big thanks to everyone for their thoughts! I would like to say that “vanity” probably was not the correct word to use. Maybe notoriety, attention getting or something along those lines would have been a better word.

]]> By: sock hands http://climbingnarc.com/2008/12/sendtrain-heating-up-in-hueco-tanks/comment-page-1/#comment-4292 sock hands Wed, 31 Dec 2008 22:29:30 +0000 http://climbingnarc.com/?p=1998#comment-4292 my motivation to fist everyone's faces who gets to climb when i do not is most certainly PURE !!!!!!!1111111 also, i appreciate the counter point about gaskins this weekend i was planning on climbing. i still am. it figures, however, that the forecast is going from sunny and 48ish to precip just in time for my session. rage! will this prevent me from climbing? hells no. will it prevent any friends from showing up to hang out and climb with me? yes. thus, any sending that takes place will go from of ultimate importance to everyone to mere masterbatory floundering. so, is it not worth doing if there's no one to do it with, like the song tells us? maybe. or, maybe that's what blogs are for? bringing friends in on the session after the fact? yes? no? QTIP trust? shit. gotta go. my motivation to fist everyone’s faces who gets to climb when i do not is most certainly PURE !!!!!!!1111111

also, i appreciate the counter point about gaskins

this weekend i was planning on climbing. i still am. it figures, however, that the forecast is going from sunny and 48ish to precip just in time for my session. rage! will this prevent me from climbing? hells no. will it prevent any friends from showing up to hang out and climb with me? yes. thus, any sending that takes place will go from of ultimate importance to everyone to mere masterbatory floundering.

so, is it not worth doing if there’s no one to do it with, like the song tells us? maybe. or, maybe that’s what blogs are for? bringing friends in on the session after the fact?

yes? no?

QTIP trust?

shit. gotta go.

]]> By: John http://climbingnarc.com/2008/12/sendtrain-heating-up-in-hueco-tanks/comment-page-1/#comment-4291 John Wed, 31 Dec 2008 21:42:07 +0000 http://climbingnarc.com/?p=1998#comment-4291 Your blog better be ripe with non-vain updates of your upcoming trip to Hueco. Don't sell out. Your blog better be ripe with non-vain updates of your upcoming trip to Hueco. Don’t sell out.

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