The so-called Nameless Arete (V4) at Governor Dodge is one of those problems that can be really frustrating. Based on its grade it shouldn’t be that hard (in the grand scheme of things). However, it requires a certain amount of subtlety and refinement of beta that can be hard to figure out. Especially for me…
The problem ascends the tall, striking arete to the left of Sandstone Violence. There is some bad rock near the arete that has broken over the years, but the arete itself is very solid. The real trick to this problem is figuring out how to keep from barn-dooring off the bottom moves. I tried many different variations before successfully gaining the upper part of the arete. The top is rather high, but thankfully it is much easier.
Somewhat amusing, in this day of certain sites insisting that the time spent on a problem directly correlates to its difficulty, is the fact that it took me more tries to send Nameless Arete than its much more difficult neighbor. Of course, two split tips didn’t really help.
Because I am a punter, I had to stitch together this sequence of photos across multiple attempts. Just ignore the different wardrobe/shoe/spotter combinations. Thanks to Chris for taking the photos!
