Comments on: Dosage V Review & Trailer

By: Chris Sharma Sends ‘Golpe De Estado’ (5.15b?) In Siurana | Climbing Narcissist

Thu, 18 Dec 2008 12:19:56 +0000

[...] suggested a grade of 5.15b for this new line. You can see footage of him working this route in Dosage V. Looks sick…and [...]

By: The Adventure Channel

The Adventure Channel — Wed, 17 Dec 2008 16:12:55 +0000

Nice trailer! Thanks!

http://theadventurechannel.blogspot.com

By: Dosage 5 trailer - TubeGuide

Dosage 5 trailer - TubeGuide — Wed, 17 Dec 2008 00:26:10 +0000

[...] UP’s “Dosage 5″ really bad voice over or are they being ironic? Climbingnarc.com has a good review and some behind the scenes info, don’t miss it. You can follow any [...]

By: Narc

Narc — Mon, 15 Dec 2008 23:20:51 +0000

Big Up has corroborated that story as well.

Perhaps “admirable” was the wrong word, but I think that it was a tough choice that they made. Instead of taking the easy road and focusing on AG (the hardest climb) like they had probably originally planned, they chose to downplay it in favor of other (less controversial) climbs.

It’s not like AG is the first chipped route to be in a movie, although admittedly the chipping doesn’t usually occur with the camera crew right there.

By: JV

JV — Mon, 15 Dec 2008 22:54:03 +0000

Re: American Gangster.

In summary, I’ve heard accounts (from people in China I met while there just prior to the arrival of the bigup crew) that corroborate what others have said (http://jamespearsonclimbing.blogspot.com/2008/03/dont-forget-to-pack-your-ethics.html)

The dude drilled out the hold while the film crew was hanging above him.

Should the section have been included at all? Maybe it would’ve been more “admirable” if they included footage of the drilling process.

By: Narc

Narc — Mon, 15 Dec 2008 22:22:54 +0000

If the dog is trained to re-arrange pads depending on where a climb goes then count me in.

By: sock hands

sock hands — Mon, 15 Dec 2008 22:20:51 +0000

note: whenever you send, either right at the top out or while you are taking off your shoes, there is ALWAYS a dog nose to tag w/ your fist even when humans are not nearby. if you would like a dog nose to tag, i will mail one to you, but understand that a live dog will be attached thereto.

By: Narc

Narc — Mon, 15 Dec 2008 20:47:11 +0000

Also of note with regard to the Northeast bouldering segment is the part where the guy explodes his ankle. Word on the street was that he broke it repeating the problem for the cameras after he had already sent that day.

By: Narc

Narc — Mon, 15 Dec 2008 20:45:30 +0000

Yes, the commentary by Dave Graham is always MUCH more interesting than your average climber rambling. I’m not sure what it is, but it works. It is something that most climbers should not attempt to replicate should they be interviewed in a climbing movie.

Much to my surprise, tagging your fist in the camera only works when there is someone there filming you. I tried it after sending a recent project of mine only to find that I was, in fact, alone at the crag. Disappointing…

By: sock hands

sock hands — Mon, 15 Dec 2008 20:38:32 +0000

the reason that the arkansauce footage does indeed own the dvd is strangely NOT the climbing… usually climbers talking is super obnoxious in climbing flicks, but it is particularly well done in the arkansauce piece and gives the entire thing a very fun, chaotic feel… which i guess conveys the real soul of bouldering itself…

that said, i also really like the northeast segment and the black grass song has achieved top honors in climbing video trax for me.

finally, the alpine blocks segement should have culminated with wader jumping into one of the many trout-laden alpine lakes, emerging with a cut-throat in his teeth, and then eating it sushi smeegle style.

THAT would have owned. or maybe something dealing with elk tipping in estes? big cat wrasslin’?

By: Narc

Narc — Mon, 15 Dec 2008 17:46:31 +0000

Also agreed. In Dosage V I have watched the Arkansas dose the most followed by Yosemite bouldering. I think the dose with Dave Graham has been my favorite in each of the Dosages.

By: JE

JE — Mon, 15 Dec 2008 17:41:17 +0000

I stand firm that the Arkansas dose is by far the best one, shikidang, tag my fist, in the camera.

suspension has only been climbed twice, not an alpine bloc at all, covered in snow now

By: Narc

Narc — Mon, 15 Dec 2008 16:46:49 +0000

I agree. Obviously the Jade footage was hard to deal with as it had been online for almost a year (with multiple repeats on film a well). I guess we have to remember sometimes that not everyone out there is watching all of these videos online. Many people are, but not all. I too found it anticlimactic in the sense that I had already seen it, but it is hard to think of what else could have been used there to culminate that dose as everything tends to build to an uber hard send in the bouldering doses.

I’m not sure that either send of Suspension has been caught on film. It seems like we would have seen it by now if they had.

Thanks for stopping by to comment again Ryan!

By: Ryan J

Ryan J — Mon, 15 Dec 2008 15:59:23 +0000

I watched the American Gangster footage via the nike sweetspots. i think bigup did a great job featuring other climbs in the dose. Because we/i had already seen the American Gangster footage, i was excited to see more of the other routes, a short clip of the crux was all that was needed to remind me of the route.
For this reason, the alpine blocks was one of my least favorite segments. The rest of the footage was good, but the culmination of the dose, jade, was ‘old news’ because the vid had been online for so long. I think if jade had been nestled into the dose rather than at the end, i would have enjoyed it better. btw, was there any footage of suspension of disbelief? THAT would have been a good finish!!