Comments on: Dave Graham’s ‘The Island’ (V15) Repeated Twice

By: chris

chris — Mon, 15 Dec 2008 18:48:49 +0000

perhaps another reason that island gets more attention is that it is a new-school problem, steeper, more like a gym climb. Kheops is very vertical, technical. Dave is an excellent climber in the realm of technique and balance, but he is not exactly a big, powerful dude, is he? Many real font climbers have not done kheops, and not for lack of desire… O. Lebreton, a very talented, born and bred font climber, just completed kheops not too long ago. Julien Nadiras did it with new beta several years ago, only to return to complete the sds a couple days after falling from the top to find the new method impossible after the previously unnoticed hold was struck from the climb by parties unknown, assumably in order to preserve the problem in its original sequence.
Anyhoo, they’re both great, but, obviously more folks out there will, for example, be able to climb a v12 overhang rather than a v12 slab.
Turd is a bit strong for anything in Font, ‘cept maybe Ouzo, or starting a certain v12 sit start two moves in and calling it a separate v13 problem. I am guilty of doing Ouzo, though!

By: Narc

Narc — Mon, 15 Dec 2008 12:47:10 +0000

If memory serves, there is footage of DG sending Kheops on MVM.

By: chris

chris — Mon, 15 Dec 2008 02:42:52 +0000

Kheops was a project for a number of years, as was the island. It helps to have some beta for doing problems- obviously an FA will take more time to figure than one that has video and photo sequences posted everywhere. And, I don’t think (I hope, anyways) that anyone believes in Jens idea about time=difficulty. Anyone who climbs knows this don’t compute.
And, I think Kheops is amazing. And so is the Island. And everyone has their reasons for their opinions.

By: Mark

Mark — Fri, 12 Dec 2008 20:22:03 +0000

I agree. I’m not one to bash someone for trying to do a good thing by sharing news or new ideas, but their ethic leaves a lot to be desired sometimes, and their rationale is kinda iffy sometimes on things. I once messaged Jens some constructive criticism and told him it was only that, and he kinda interrogated me.

On the topic of free time, I do too, thats why I can check this site and 8a every 5 seconds to see how faster you are on legitimate news. And when I told my friend Nick who knows you, that you beat 8a, that was his reasoning to. Free time.

By: Narc

Narc — Fri, 12 Dec 2008 19:06:38 +0000

What can I say, I have a lot of free time.

On the topic of 8a, it would be nice if they did a better job of crediting people like Joost for coming across this news.

By: Mark

Mark — Fri, 12 Dec 2008 19:04:09 +0000

Either way, props for being on top of this news Narc. You beat the fools at 8a.nu. Not like you needed anything more to prove how much better you are then Jens and those guys.

By: sock hands

sock hands — Fri, 12 Dec 2008 15:22:56 +0000

pinto is just being agreeable; he’s a nice guy and doesn’t want to make you feel totally foolish, even if you are in this instance.

rolson counts for nothing since he’s not updated his photo page. opinion value totally nullified.

also, his red hair tells me that his opinion is ALWAYS masking an ulterior motive.

By: Jamie

Jamie — Fri, 12 Dec 2008 05:41:29 +0000

justin your opinion is pretty laughable, i think ang pinto olson and I would all wholehearteedly agree on that one.

By: sock hands

sock hands — Fri, 12 Dec 2008 00:14:22 +0000

word, je, though based on photos, i stand strong on my charge that DW’s cave line is cooler than call of the wild

and we all know that opinions based purely on intardweb footage are BOMBPROOF, BITCHES!

By: JE

JE — Thu, 11 Dec 2008 22:02:11 +0000

Having seen both, Kheops is a turd, the Island is amazing.