Comments on: Chris Sharma Sends ‘Golpe De Estado’ (5.15b?) In Siurana

By: Narc

Narc — Fri, 19 Dec 2008 12:21:52 +0000

Don’t we all!

By: sock hands

sock hands — Thu, 18 Dec 2008 23:50:03 +0000

often a route will originally take the path of least resistance, which may result in a line that cuts diagonally across a wall rather than taking a direct bottom to top path. these direct starts simply begin in such a way as to avoid the traversing nature of the original. in bouldering, a good example is ode to the modern man versus super gui. both are ultra classic, but super gui involves traversing in to the obvious left exit about 15 feet or so, while ode starts directly beneath the obvious exit and blasts more or less straight up through it.

By: mock daniels

mock daniels — Thu, 18 Dec 2008 23:40:27 +0000

what is a direct start? i see that everywhere about how someone has made a route harder, but to be honest i don’t get it

By: sock hands

sock hands — Thu, 18 Dec 2008 22:02:12 +0000

the more i think about it…. it has worked for mad rock and when evolvs were cheap, them too. look at all the kids in the climbing gym.. if not sponsored, they usually are sporting evolv or madrock. maybe the cheap = mass sales concept would apply for climbing videos as well? perhaps big up could experiment with a cheap vid, and if volume does not more than compensate for lost revenue on each sale, then they can go back to the thirty bones deal.

By: peter

peter — Thu, 18 Dec 2008 21:44:45 +0000

Narc-
I like your point about the financial concerns of high/low prices. In a situation where there’s an abundance of consumers, it seems to make sense to accept that not everyone is going to buy your product and just charge higher prices for those who do. Climbing films (even more than climbing shit in general, if that’s possible) seem to be a product where producers can’t afford NOT to have EVERYONE purchase videos. Of course, I don’t know anything about this but if I were to start a company I think that my business plan would entail low cost production and distribution leading to low price videos sold at front counters of climbing gyms across the nation.

By: Dick Fitzenceider

Dick Fitzenceider — Thu, 18 Dec 2008 21:23:21 +0000

Those Euro cats are probably thrilled someone stateside buys one of their movies much less spreads it around. My experience may differ from others, but after translating it only adds to the humorous air that surrounds 8a. Nalle is definitely fun to watch progress (and stilt the universal post-send interview away from the fact his resend took as much time to refamiliarize with as some of his harder sends first go round.)

By: Josh

Josh — Thu, 18 Dec 2008 20:29:38 +0000

We Need Stimulation! And I don’t mean economic.
-JL

By: Narc

Narc — Thu, 18 Dec 2008 20:13:26 +0000

I claim technical interference by the work overlords. Big Up’s website is blocked at work!! How am I supposed to stalk the happenings?!?

By: Narc

Narc — Thu, 18 Dec 2008 20:08:18 +0000

Good point Peter. The Dosage videos haven’t aged too poorly, but aged they have. It’s just a natural evolution of the sport I guess.

I think a list of the bizarre and random footage added to old climbing movies could be quite funny.

By: sock hands

sock hands — Thu, 18 Dec 2008 20:02:01 +0000

also, i disagree w/ peteface. when i weigh the cost of a climbing dvd with the total number of times that i am likely to play it while trying to wake up before an early early session, or while doing my morning 15 minute work out, i find that the cost is nanocents versus the admission price to a theater or the cost of a dinner out, or the cost of any number of miserable things that break in your house and bring absolutely no lasting joy.

if it wasn’t for energetic climbing dvd footage, i could hardly motivate in the morning to pull on my sixty. seriously. music has the advantage of not captivating you adn distracting you from actually training but for some mental reason, having climbing dvds on in the morning wakes me up much better than coffee…. and when the footage turns to something lame like a route, i often play little games like trying to hang or keep climbing for the entire duration of the route footage… mental games… keeps it interesting?

in any event, i’d rather one climbing dvd for christmas than any two hollywood movies, that’s for sure…

in closing, i’d like to mention that you all… ALL.. will purchase rocky mountain highball when it comes out in february. if you do not, you will be punished with fists! and you bet your ass there will be inspections! inspections and beatings. be warned.