Comments on: Upcoming Falcon Guide To Colorado Bouldering

By: Narc

Narc — Mon, 22 Sep 2008 17:31:18 +0000

Indeed. Updated post on this site coming soon.

By: Luke

Luke — Mon, 22 Sep 2008 17:27:26 +0000

A bit more recent info (9/19/08) from Peter Beal’s Blog.

http://mountainsandwater.blogspot.com/2008/09/falcons-error-sheet.html

By: Ryan

Ryan — Fri, 15 Aug 2008 18:44:01 +0000

This should be interesting to see how it all plays out. I heard about the book at the retailer show as well but have never been to Mt. Evans. Although I would appreciate an accurate guidebook so I could get my send on as well.

By: Lynnatron

Lynnatron — Fri, 15 Aug 2008 17:39:02 +0000

Kate – why would you ever want an incorrect guide book? Don’t you want to know HOW to get to the boulders, and what you’re actually climbing on, instead of what some irresponsible douche is trying to publish…I think it is ethically devestating that a publishing company would be interested in printing fiction and selling it as truth. Not to mention it takes a dump on all the real FAers…

By: sock hands

sock hands — Thu, 14 Aug 2008 21:37:44 +0000

the real backbone of the opposition to the upcoming guide is the listing of closed areas and improper/illegal approach beta for otherwise legal areas. unlike in the beck baldwin russo utah bouldering guide, thesea areas are not listed with huge caveats that the problems are included for historical purposes only in the even access is secured in the future. the closed colorado areas are listed like any other. that is very dangerous for all of us. the argument can be made that folks did climb and spray about some of these areas already and the guide only follows this spray stream back to its source, but like boulder’s “secret garden”, once it became clear that there were major issues accessing the public land, these areas have been deserted ever since.

the misinformation regarding names, grades, and exact location of boulders is *very* prevalent in the guide, but i agree that it will primarialy affect the individual climber [or in that instance, listless wanderer] rather than the entire community like the former issue will. regardless, you will not be finding the “right cliffline” for many of the alpine area listings, or {and my FAVORITE] you will find the exact stone pictured but will soon realize that the sweet sounding line you wanted to find and try does not exist, whether in this dimension or any parallel one. enyoy, amigos!

By: tissuetendons

tissuetendons — Thu, 14 Aug 2008 21:23:35 +0000

at the very least it creates content which can be ridiculed in a REAL colorado bouldering guide.

it also gives me a good reason to extend my falcon boycott. just say no….to falcon guides.

By: Kate C

Kate C — Thu, 14 Aug 2008 20:32:30 +0000

I dunno, maybe I just like guidebooks a lot, but I always feel like having a guide is better than not having one, even if there are a few mistakes.

As long as it gets you to the right cliffline (NRG guidebook not so good at this), and doesn’t give you bad information on the descent (City of Rocks, I’m looking at you), or measure distances in furlongs (Ah, Vedauwoo), then having one around is a good thing right? Well… ok… maybe not always.