If you are looking to pad your spraysheet with a slew of easy ticks, Yosemite might not be for you. If you are looking to try hard and climb classic lines regardless of the grade then you would probably enjoy the climbing in Yosemite. Much like we did. Read on for more.
Yosemite Bouldering: Candyland
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Maxim Rope Recall
New England ropes is recalling two types of their Maxim climbing ropes. Check AllClimbing for more details and then check your ropes to make sure yours aren’t part of the recall.
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The Outsider: 85 Days In Fontainebleau (Climbing Movie)
It took me awhile to get around to watching it (on my iPhone no less), but the recently released climbing movie The Outsider was well worth the wait. It features a plethora of classic blocs from one man’s 85 day stint in Fontainebleau, France (and one day in Switzerland), all shot in beautiful high definition. [...]
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Living The High Life At Devil’s Lake
Old School and I made our respective returns from surgery to the sharp end at Devil’s Lake yesterday. I decided to leave my camera behind so my words will have to suffice…for the most part.
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Torrent Falls Re-Opened To Public Climbers
Been itching to send one of those classic 5.11 or 5.12s at the Red River Gorge’s Torrent Falls Crag? Bummed that is has been closed to the public for the better part of 1+ year? Well, those days are over. Sort of. Torrent Falls has been re-opened to public climbing, however the re-opening comes with new rules in place to help limit problems that led to its closure in the first place. Climbing will only be allowed on Thursday, Friday or Saturday, and you must register day-of. Visit the new Torrent Falls website for more information.
Midnight Lightning
Let’s start out the stories from our trip to Yosemite with someone (sadly not me) sending the most famous boulder problem on the planet, Midnight Lightning (V8). Located smack dab in the middle of Yosemite’s famous Camp 4 campground (and literally 10 feet from the bathrooms), Midnight Lightning’s fame does come with a few downfalls. [...]
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Momentum Video Magazine Switching To A Free Format
The high quality climbing site Momentum Video Magazine is dropping it’s paid subscription service and offering all of its content for free beginning in September 2008.
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Newsflash: Paul Robinson and Ty Landman Are REALLY Strong…
Paul Robinson and Ty Landman have taken their talents on the road to South Africa and Switzerland respectively. Read on for tales of V15 sending in two hours and repeats of historic V13 and V14 boulders.
DVD Winner & Back From Yosemite
Before we left for our Left Coast trip I failed to mention the winner of our Free DVD competition. The winner was Isaac and he unfortunately chose The Australia Project. I say unfortunate because I really didn’t want to give that one up! Nevertheless, I will get that out to you in the mail by [...]
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Video Friday – 2/10/2012
February 10, 2012
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Jimmy Webb’s Climbed 99 Problems And The Island (V14) Was One
February 9, 2012
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Dean Potter On Nat Geo This Sunday
February 9, 2012
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Golden Direct Repeated By Ben Spannuth
February 8, 2012
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Great News From Red Rock
February 8, 2012
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Alex Johnson Climbs Lethal Design (V12)
February 7, 2012
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Low Gravity Week In Fontainebleau
February 6, 2012
News & Notes
Jimmy Webb’s Climbed 99 Problems And The Island (V14) Was One
Ok. Horrible title. Forgive me.
Anyway, Jimmy Webb is about a week into his first trip to Font. Last week he managed that one day ascent of Kheops Assis (V14), and according to his 8a scorecard this week he managed a relatively quick repeat of Dave Graham’s The Island a once V15 but now maybe V14 at Coquibus Rumont. This latest ascent puts him at 99 problems V10 or harder in the past 12 months which is notable for being 99 more V10s or harder than I’ve done in my entire life1.
Golden Direct Repeated By Ben Spannuth
Ben Spannuth, who recently started a blog at LT11, grabbed a rare repeat Golden Direct at the Cathedral in Southern Utah according to his 8a scorecard. Golden Direct was first done in 2008 by Joe Kinder at a suggested grade of 5.14d and was subsequently repeated by the likes of Chris Sharma and Jonathan Siegrist. Having climbed five other routes in the 5.14c/d range in the past 6 months, Spannuth felt Golden Direct warranted a grade of 5.14c.
1 CommentAlex Johnson Climbs Lethal Design (V12)
Alex Johnson gave the highballs in Bishop a break to check out the bouldering in Red Rock, Nevada where she repeated the V12 highball Lethal Design according to her 8a scorecard:
great support crew and tons of pads! long and crimpy. worked out all the moves quick and sent first burn.
Since the start of 2012 she has done some eight V10′s or harder across Yosemite, Bishop and Red Rock.
Update: Climbing.com caught up with Johnson to discuss the ascent
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