Archive | May, 2008

Possible Dosage Box Set?

Posted May 30, 2008 at 9:34 am · Comments { 2 } ·

To follow-up on yesterday’s news of what is going to be in the upcoming Dosage 5 DVD from Big Up Productions, I have also heard rumblings of a possible DVD box set of all 5 Dosage movies being released at the same time as Dosage 5.  Nothing firm yet, but that is the rumor.  Sounds like a good way to get caught up on 5 of the best climbing movies ever made if you haven’t been following along the whole time…or someone took your copy of Dosage 3 and never returned it…

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Exclusive Details On Contents Of Dosage 5

Exclusive Details On Contents Of Dosage 5

Posted May 29, 2008 at 7:19 am · Comments { 13 } ·

There have been hints dropped here and there as to what will be on the upcoming Dosage 5 DVD, but never a definitive list. Until now that is. Check out this list of what Doses will be comprising the next highly anticipated release from Big Up Productions.

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Sonnie Trotter ‘Gives Back’

Posted May 28, 2008 at 1:31 pm · Comments { 3 } ·

Peep this story from Scotland where Sonnie Trotter (in town working E11 trad route Rhapsody) helped rescue a ‘Non-Educated Delinquent’  Scottish youth when said youth climbed higher than he felt comfortable downclimbing and became stuck.

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Gibraltar Rock

Gibraltar Rock

Posted May 28, 2008 at 7:20 am · Comments { 5 } ·

Unfortunately, I can’t claim much knowledge about the bolted sandstone climbing at Gibraltar Rock near Devil’s Lake, WI. In fact, it took me several years before I even realized how close it was to the Lake. How could this be you ask? I thought The Narc was a walking encyclopedia of climbing information on all areas of importance? True, of course. However I like to focus on areas that have been open to climbing at least 1 day during my climbing career, and sadly that cannot be said about Gibraltar. Hopefully, this fact could be changing in the near future.

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From Zero To 5.14 In 5 Months

Posted May 27, 2008 at 8:02 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Less than 5 full months since fracturing his heel while attempting Mandala SDS (V14) in Bishop, and about 1 month since taking his first steps outside of his cast, Ethan Pringle sent a 5.14 this past weekend.  He sent Beach Arete at Mickey’s Beach in California that apparently goes at 5.14a without using any chipped holds.  Nice work Ethan!

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How Much Would You Give?

How Much Would You Give?

Posted May 26, 2008 at 9:40 am · Comments { 8 } · Photo: jcolman

Memorial Day weekend. An opportunity seized by almost all climbers to take advantage of an extended break from our day to day lives to go climbing. Unfortunately for me, my recent thumb surgery has me sidelined and thinking.

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Adam Ondra Action Directe Video

Posted May 23, 2008 at 1:29 pm · Comments { 3 } ·

Action Directe is one of those iconic problems that I don’t really think you can see too much footage of people climbing.  Check out Euroclimbing.com for footage of Adam Ondra on his recent repeat of this classic 5.14d.  Not the greatest footage, but the cool photos make up for it.

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Countdown To 2008 Bouldering World Cup In Vail

Countdown To 2008 Bouldering World Cup In Vail

Posted May 23, 2008 at 7:07 am · Comments { 6 } · Photo: Teva Mountain Games

Two weeks from today, internationally sanctioned competition climbing will make its return to U.S. soil at the Teva Mountain Games. It seems like just yesterday we were at ABS Nationals in Boulder watching people qualify!

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Carlo Traversi Paths Of Glory (V12) FA Video

Posted May 23, 2008 at 6:30 am · Comments { 4 } ·

Wade David has a high res video for download of Carlo Traversi doing the First Ascent of Paths Of Glory (V12) in Clear Creek Canyon, CO.  Daniel Woods made a quick 2nd ascent last weekend and commented that the problem has “really bad rock”, but it looks pretty good in the video.

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