Comments on: Truth In Advertising?

By: the treacherous baron "big poppa" von chosscrush VII

the treacherous baron "big poppa" von chosscrush VII — Wed, 19 Mar 2008 17:42:02 +0000

good thing castlewood’s lines are super solid and burly hard so that i can claim that castlewood is way more sikk than magicwood.
hell, every other day an important hold breaks off a well-traveled ‘classic’… the grades at castlewood are JUST GONNA GET HARDER as time goes on!!
can’t wait to start a scene when i finally visit LCC… “dang man, you think these grades are solid, you shoudl visit castlewood… if you can climb v5 there, you can climb v9 ANYWHERE [else]”
heh.

By: zonk

zonk — Wed, 19 Mar 2008 17:22:42 +0000

to be fair to 8a.nu (and yes, quite often they annoy me to no end), i think they have pointed out that a lot of hard problems at other areas, european hotspots, have been downgraded too. magic wood, for example, is known to be soft i believe.

By: peter beal

peter beal — Wed, 19 Mar 2008 16:13:09 +0000

More disturbing than simple grading “controversy” are Fairfield’s comments about the future of climbing.

http://mountainsandwater.blogspot.com/2007/11/fake-climbing-for-future.html

By: Climbing Narcissist

Climbing Narcissist — Wed, 19 Mar 2008 15:01:19 +0000

I had observed the same thing and perhaps it deserves further discussion in a more in depth post. I think that at this point it is obvious the editorial opinions of 8a.nu hold very little weight with anyone.

By: the treacherous baron "big poppa" von chosscrush VII

the treacherous baron "big poppa" von chosscrush VII — Wed, 19 Mar 2008 14:40:57 +0000

agreed. just fun to push around in the greyness.
on the issue of grades, consider this: 8a commented multiple times over the last few years about the downgrading that’s gone on in RMNP and other US climbing areas… as if our grades and us climbers were all soft…
now, a bunch of colorado climbers are carving through switzerland… the crown jewel of ‘hard’ bouldering…. like a hot knife through… soft… butter.
no mention of how ‘soft’ these problems are perceived to be on 8a? ignoring when the shoe is on the other foot?
i’m not suggesting that it is right to be petty with regionalism…you know: ” OUR place is so CORE and your areas are so SOFT, MAN!!! BWAHAHAHAHA ”

but it really burns my ass when i see or hear instances of this… how burly one area is versus another. when this discussion is done in a cool, calculated way and presented as a level headed opinion, i am very interested in hearing about regional differences in grading… but, when it becomes a pissing match, i get highly irritated….

“ALL YOUR SHIT’S SOFT CHOSS”, etc.

if 8a is keen on cutting through the hype of areas like RMNP, shouldn’t it follow suit w/ european hot spots?

By: Climbing Narcissist

Climbing Narcissist — Wed, 19 Mar 2008 14:04:41 +0000

FancyKetchup – That is really funny.

Sock Hands – Thanks for the added insight. I agree that in the grand scheme of things that quibbling over a letter or number here and there is not really worth getting worked up about. I just thought I would raise the issue to see what everyone else thinks. It gives us something to do on the long days chained to our desks. I do think that it is in the best interest of the sport as a whole though to try and maintain a level of integrity with how information is presented.

By: the treacherous baron "big poppa" von chosscrush VII

the treacherous baron "big poppa" von chosscrush VII — Wed, 19 Mar 2008 13:52:17 +0000

“under v7″ “v7″ & “over v7″ would be difficult to mess up.
interestingly, legend has it that lisa rands got bouted on hollow’s way after decimating higher graded climbs shortly before… supposedly, she had mentioned that it felt “like v10″. this story bounced around for a short while and may have taken root in some minds.
also, pringle’s recent comment that it felt harder than a consensus v11 in poudre canyon gave credence to this idea, though such comment was clearly after the sportiva add.
i did notice the grade inflation on the above described ads and i’ve noticed the same in climbing news both in print and on the web. all in all, however, it just doesn’t really matter. most folks couldn’t care less what climbs someone has sent and has not sent, let alone what grades were sprayed for em. if you’re in the know on the grade of something, you can sit quiet and smug knowing that you are more bad ass than the person claiming a higher grade. or, you can just say “huh, interesting” and carry on with your day indifferent to the whole non-issue.
i do think that advertisements should say “super climba fool ON _________” when a send has not yet been manifested by the labors of such fool.
but to what extent does everything need to be policed? should the black diamond add be revised to read: x dood on “the static version of free willy that is not quite the same and is not quite as difficult as the original dyno-required version” v-something [most feel hard v9 or still 10, but definitely a bit easier than the dyno version]
??
what level of ‘disclosure’ is required?
at least for the hollow’s way add we got a really cool photo out of it… prolly the best hollow’s way shot i’ve seen, though i’ve got my fingaz crossed for andy mann to bust out some of his recent shots on it.
just some thoughts. not saying this topic should not have been raised…. it’s interesting that it has been so raised… just some counterpoint nuggets for you to mull over.

By: Tony

Tony — Wed, 19 Mar 2008 02:32:52 +0000

To typo proof it we just need to move all climbing related letters to opposite corners of the key board.

By: fancyketchup

fancyketchup — Tue, 18 Mar 2008 22:59:39 +0000

It is interesting to note that Hollows Way is just off the section of Flagstaff Road that is maintained by Sportiva. Dab. Though for someone as short as Abby I’m sure it feels V10.

By: Luke

Luke — Tue, 18 Mar 2008 21:52:28 +0000

Brilliant!!
We need a new rating system that is typo proof!
Suggestions?!?!?!