Comments on: Don’t Fall Mode http://climbingnarc.com/2008/03/dont-fall-mode/ So obsessed with climbing it hurts... Thu, 24 May 2012 02:27:30 +0000 hourly 1 http://wordpress.org/?v=3.3.2 By: gabor http://climbingnarc.com/2008/03/dont-fall-mode/comment-page-1/#comment-1202 gabor Thu, 13 Mar 2008 02:29:18 +0000 http://climbingnarc.com/2008/03/dont-fall-mode#comment-1202 for me its pretty wierd.. when i redpoint i go into the DFM, but on onsights or flashes its usually the opposite. i get really nervous and i epic on the easy moves, get really pumped, then fall. its happened so many times now, so annoying! for me its pretty wierd.. when i redpoint i go into the DFM, but on onsights or flashes its usually the opposite. i get really nervous and i epic on the easy moves, get really pumped, then fall. its happened so many times now, so annoying!

]]> By: Ben http://climbingnarc.com/2008/03/dont-fall-mode/comment-page-1/#comment-1195 Ben Wed, 12 Mar 2008 16:55:41 +0000 http://climbingnarc.com/2008/03/dont-fall-mode#comment-1195 For me, DFM occurs pretty often when I'm leading sport near my limit.  My conscious mind kind of shuts off and I start making the moves as if by instinct. If someone asks me for beta after I flash a hard route, I'll often have no clue because I wasn't really thinking about the moves as I did them. On the flip side I'll go into MFM whenever I realized I am, or could be, fucked in some way. If I realize my hands are crossed, I am dangerously high above my last piece of pro, or maybe this heel hook isn't a good idea without my spotter moving the pad... I'll go into MFM. My conscious mind starts screaming at me, I start over gripping, my hands feel sweaty, and if I am able to pull through the move it ends up taking 10x the energy compared to being in DFM. For me, DFM occurs pretty often when I’m leading sport near my limit.  My conscious mind kind of shuts off and I start making the moves as if by instinct. If someone asks me for beta after I flash a hard route, I’ll often have no clue because I wasn’t really thinking about the moves as I did them.

On the flip side I’ll go into MFM whenever I realized I am, or could be, fucked in some way. If I realize my hands are crossed, I am dangerously high above my last piece of pro, or maybe this heel hook isn’t a good idea without my spotter moving the pad… I’ll go into MFM. My conscious mind starts screaming at me, I start over gripping, my hands feel sweaty, and if I am able to pull through the move it ends up taking 10x the energy compared to being in DFM.

]]> By: Kevlar http://climbingnarc.com/2008/03/dont-fall-mode/comment-page-1/#comment-1194 Kevlar Wed, 12 Mar 2008 15:46:40 +0000 http://climbingnarc.com/2008/03/dont-fall-mode#comment-1194 I think sometimes you get DFM because your completely sketched about your last clip or you dont want to fall off the top of your boulder problem! I think sometimes you get DFM because your completely sketched about your last clip or you dont want to fall off the top of your boulder problem!

]]> By: Climbing Narcissist http://climbingnarc.com/2008/03/dont-fall-mode/comment-page-1/#comment-1193 Climbing Narcissist Wed, 12 Mar 2008 14:58:42 +0000 http://climbingnarc.com/2008/03/dont-fall-mode#comment-1193 I like that.  OS mode is a good way to summarize the feelings you have when you know you can send something yet blow it anyhow...and sometimes you will pull it out of your ass.<br> I like that.  OS mode is a good way to summarize the feelings you have when you know you can send something yet blow it anyhow…and sometimes you will pull it out of your ass.

]]> By: the treacherous baron "big poppa" von chosscrush VII http://climbingnarc.com/2008/03/dont-fall-mode/comment-page-1/#comment-1192 the treacherous baron "big poppa" von chosscrush VII Wed, 12 Mar 2008 14:54:06 +0000 http://climbingnarc.com/2008/03/dont-fall-mode#comment-1192 note: mfm has an alias, it is OS mode.  for some, this is misunderstood to mean 'on-sight mode' though in reality it means 'OH SHIT! mode', which can have the same result as on-sight mode:  survival grappling and clawing to the top. note: mfm has an alias, it is OS mode.  for some, this is misunderstood to mean ‘on-sight mode’ though in reality it means ‘OH SHIT! mode’, which can have the same result as on-sight mode:  survival grappling and clawing to the top.

]]> By: jacob http://climbingnarc.com/2008/03/dont-fall-mode/comment-page-1/#comment-1189 jacob Wed, 12 Mar 2008 13:59:25 +0000 http://climbingnarc.com/2008/03/dont-fall-mode#comment-1189 i recently had an encounter with this don't fall mode that you're talking about. i've always heard people saying that you just need to try hard. well, that never made any sense to me, i always thought that i tried hard. i guess that i was wrong. working an old project, trying the elusive topout, i mentally seemed to narrow my focus and told myself that i was not going to fall or drop off. this somehow translated to me digging deep and pulling harder than i've ever pulled before. everything did slow down and i was totally aware of my breathing and the lichen on the scrubbed but still dirty holds. the only thought on my mind was that next edge with the perfect middle finger divot. the don't fall mode was the key to unprecedented focus and that ounce of extra strenght. i think that all of us, as climbers, can relate. i constantly feel like i try and try and try but ive never really tried until that day. connecting the mental with the physical is the crux of every climb. i recently had an encounter with this don’t fall mode that you’re talking about. i’ve always heard people saying that you just need to try hard. well, that never made any sense to me, i always thought that i tried hard. i guess that i was wrong. working an old project, trying the elusive topout, i mentally seemed to narrow my focus and told myself that i was not going to fall or drop off. this somehow translated to me digging deep and pulling harder than i’ve ever pulled before. everything did slow down and i was totally aware of my breathing and the lichen on the scrubbed but still dirty holds. the only thought on my mind was that next edge with the perfect middle finger divot. the don’t fall mode was the key to unprecedented focus and that ounce of extra strenght. i think that all of us, as climbers, can relate. i constantly feel like i try and try and try but ive never really tried until that day. connecting the mental with the physical is the crux of every climb.

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