Comments on: Devil’s Lake Trad Ticklist http://climbingnarc.com/2008/03/devils-lake-trad-ticklist/ So obsessed with climbing it hurts... Thu, 24 May 2012 02:27:30 +0000 hourly 1 http://wordpress.org/?v=3.3.2 By: mike o http://climbingnarc.com/2008/03/devils-lake-trad-ticklist/comment-page-1/#comment-8405 mike o Fri, 31 Jul 2009 06:12:04 +0000 http://climbingnarc.com/2008/03/devils-lake-trad-ticklist#comment-8405 Just started climbing at the lake and it has been great. I have onsighted most of the climbs attempted there (all 5.8 and under at this point) and lead everything (or followed if my partner wanted to lead it). So far there have always been other climbers around that have told us if it will go on gear or not. There has been more than one unknown route that we climbed randomly because we saw booty gear... every time when we got to it though it was unusable or fixed. (finally saw what a double stem'd camalot looks like up close at some route near the old sandstone quarry. Also ran into some stuck cam at the top of the frigate last weekend). Once I get over the drive from the Chicago area, the lake is great! Also, Birthday Crack was awesome, but be prepared to run out or use micro's for the first 20 ft. Just started climbing at the lake and it has been great. I have onsighted most of the climbs attempted there (all 5.8 and under at this point) and lead everything (or followed if my partner wanted to lead it). So far there have always been other climbers around that have told us if it will go on gear or not. There has been more than one unknown route that we climbed randomly because we saw booty gear… every time when we got to it though it was unusable or fixed. (finally saw what a double stem’d camalot looks like up close at some route near the old sandstone quarry. Also ran into some stuck cam at the top of the frigate last weekend). Once I get over the drive from the Chicago area, the lake is great!

Also, Birthday Crack was awesome, but be prepared to run out or use micro’s for the first 20 ft.

]]> By: Chris http://climbingnarc.com/2008/03/devils-lake-trad-ticklist/comment-page-1/#comment-4896 Chris Tue, 03 Mar 2009 18:36:47 +0000 http://climbingnarc.com/2008/03/devils-lake-trad-ticklist#comment-4896 I am no expert at DL climbing but from what I've seen and done, rap and/or TR to inspect and try placing the gear, then headpoint, esp for the harder lines. One of my current main roped partners typically onsights, but has told me it has been frightening more than once, even on routes well within his lead ability. I am no expert at DL climbing but from what I’ve seen and done, rap and/or TR to inspect and try placing the gear, then headpoint, esp for the harder lines. One of my current main roped partners typically onsights, but has told me it has been frightening more than once, even on routes well within his lead ability.

]]> By: Narc http://climbingnarc.com/2008/03/devils-lake-trad-ticklist/comment-page-1/#comment-4895 Narc Tue, 03 Mar 2009 18:30:55 +0000 http://climbingnarc.com/2008/03/devils-lake-trad-ticklist#comment-4895 Considering my fingers don't like bouldering I'm hoping to try several of these routes this spring. Considering my fingers don’t like bouldering I’m hoping to try several of these routes this spring.

]]> By: Doug http://climbingnarc.com/2008/03/devils-lake-trad-ticklist/comment-page-1/#comment-4894 Doug Tue, 03 Mar 2009 18:28:44 +0000 http://climbingnarc.com/2008/03/devils-lake-trad-ticklist#comment-4894 Hey thanks, There's certainly no lack of fun with that method. Good luck with your list ... it'd be great for you to mark out the most enjoyable leads, so I can mooch off your experiences! Cheers, -doug Hey thanks,

There’s certainly no lack of fun with that method.

Good luck with your list … it’d be great for you to mark out the most enjoyable leads, so I can mooch off your experiences!

Cheers,

-doug

]]> By: Narc http://climbingnarc.com/2008/03/devils-lake-trad-ticklist/comment-page-1/#comment-4893 Narc Tue, 03 Mar 2009 18:00:11 +0000 http://climbingnarc.com/2008/03/devils-lake-trad-ticklist#comment-4893 Interesting question. In my limited experience I use mostly visual inspection in combination with beta from others that have climbed the route. I would say that in general the prevailing technique is to just "figure it out yourself". Interesting question. In my limited experience I use mostly visual inspection in combination with beta from others that have climbed the route. I would say that in general the prevailing technique is to just “figure it out yourself”.

]]> By: Doug http://climbingnarc.com/2008/03/devils-lake-trad-ticklist/comment-page-1/#comment-4892 Doug Tue, 03 Mar 2009 17:57:39 +0000 http://climbingnarc.com/2008/03/devils-lake-trad-ticklist#comment-4892 Maybe you cats can answer this question for me. I've met very few people who lead much at devils lake. I was wondering how you people figure out the gear situations on climbs. I come from new york, where my climbing life consisted mostly of climbing at the Gunks, a trad place head to toe. The guide books for the Gunks use a gear rating system, G, PG, R, X, to describe the availability of gear on the crux move. So you know that 5.8 X will kill you if you fall at the cux, R just break a leg, PG, probably not gonna hurt if you're careful and G you can toss your rack at the cliff and be safe. Is the situation at DL pretty much figure it out for yourself on a climb by climb basis? Rap the line and take a good look before you try to lead it? I've been a habitual onsite trad leader-- get to the bottom of a climb rated G or PG and in my comfort zone in terms of difficulty, and start up 1 to 3 pitches and figure it out on the way. I get the feeling that doing this at DL will get you hurt even if it is only one pitch. It's kinda cool adventurous stuff if that's the case. Love to hear your thoughts on the matter. Cheers, -doug Maybe you cats can answer this question for me. I’ve met very few people who lead much at devils lake.

I was wondering how you people figure out the gear situations on climbs. I come from new york, where my climbing life consisted mostly of climbing at the Gunks, a trad place head to toe.

The guide books for the Gunks use a gear rating system, G, PG, R, X, to describe the availability of gear on the crux move. So you know that 5.8 X will kill you if you fall at the cux, R just break a leg, PG, probably not gonna hurt if you’re careful and G you can toss your rack at the cliff and be safe.

Is the situation at DL pretty much figure it out for yourself on a climb by climb basis? Rap the line and take a good look before you try to lead it? I’ve been a habitual onsite trad leader– get to the bottom of a climb rated G or PG and in my comfort zone in terms of difficulty, and start up 1 to 3 pitches and figure it out on the way. I get the feeling that doing this at DL will get you hurt even if it is only one pitch.

It’s kinda cool adventurous stuff if that’s the case.

Love to hear your thoughts on the matter.

Cheers,

-doug

]]> By: Climbing Narcissist http://climbingnarc.com/2008/03/devils-lake-trad-ticklist/comment-page-1/#comment-1121 Climbing Narcissist Thu, 06 Mar 2008 19:04:49 +0000 http://climbingnarc.com/2008/03/devils-lake-trad-ticklist#comment-1121 Luke, how are the crowds in Eldo? Luke, how are the crowds in Eldo?

]]> By: Luke http://climbingnarc.com/2008/03/devils-lake-trad-ticklist/comment-page-1/#comment-1120 Luke Thu, 06 Mar 2008 19:02:47 +0000 http://climbingnarc.com/2008/03/devils-lake-trad-ticklist#comment-1120 The T-Wall is Great!!! I went there a few years aback and was so happy to find some vertical cracks on the east coast! The easy stuff there is very fun and I hear the anchor situation is much better now that it was when I was there a few years ago. The T-Wall is Great!!! I went there a few years aback and was so happy to find some vertical cracks on the east coast! The easy stuff there is very fun and I hear the anchor situation is much better now that it was when I was there a few years ago.

]]> By: Climbing Narcissist http://climbingnarc.com/2008/03/devils-lake-trad-ticklist/comment-page-1/#comment-1117 Climbing Narcissist Thu, 06 Mar 2008 13:55:45 +0000 http://climbingnarc.com/2008/03/devils-lake-trad-ticklist#comment-1117 We'll have to see how it goes. I don't think I am supposed to do any climbing for 6 months but hopefully some easy mileage will not irritate things. Would love to hit up T-wall, hopefully it will be possible some day! We’ll have to see how it goes. I don’t think I am supposed to do any climbing for 6 months but hopefully some easy mileage will not irritate things.

Would love to hit up T-wall, hopefully it will be possible some day!

]]> By: rjtrials http://climbingnarc.com/2008/03/devils-lake-trad-ticklist/comment-page-1/#comment-1113 rjtrials Thu, 06 Mar 2008 04:08:44 +0000 http://climbingnarc.com/2008/03/devils-lake-trad-ticklist#comment-1113 I cant comment on the route at DL, but what I would do, is just try and send ALL the routes. 5.4 then 5.5 then 5.6 etc. Rehab is about MILEAGE! The crag cant have too many routes, eh? A couple weeks of climbing and you should be hitting 5.9 or .10. Gimme a shout if you wanna hit up T-Wall for some rehabing :) RJ I cant comment on the route at DL, but what I would do, is just try and send ALL the routes. 5.4 then 5.5 then 5.6 etc. Rehab is about MILEAGE! The crag cant have too many routes, eh? A couple weeks of climbing and you should be hitting 5.9 or .10.

Gimme a shout if you wanna hit up T-Wall for some rehabing :)

RJ

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