Comments on: Dave MacLeod Free Solos 5.14b in Spain http://climbingnarc.com/2008/03/dave-macleod-free-solos-514b-in-spain/ So obsessed with climbing it hurts... Sun, 12 Feb 2012 00:29:00 +0000 hourly 1 http://wordpress.org/?v=3.3.1 By: More On Dave MacLeod’s 5.14b Free Solo | Climbing Narcissist http://climbingnarc.com/2008/03/dave-macleod-free-solos-514b-in-spain/comment-page-1/#comment-1309 More On Dave MacLeod’s 5.14b Free Solo | Climbing Narcissist Fri, 21 Mar 2008 14:56:26 +0000 http://climbingnarc.com/2008/03/dave-macleod-free-solos-514b-in-spain#comment-1309 [...] Post a comment Posted in Climbing News | Trackback | Link to this post Last week, Dave MacLeod made news when he reported that he had free soloed Darwin Dixit (5.14b) at Margalef, Spain.  As Gabor [...] [...] Post a comment Posted in Climbing News | Trackback | Link to this post Last week, Dave MacLeod made news when he reported that he had free soloed Darwin Dixit (5.14b) at Margalef, Spain.  As Gabor [...]

]]> By: byron http://climbingnarc.com/2008/03/dave-macleod-free-solos-514b-in-spain/comment-page-1/#comment-1231 byron Sat, 15 Mar 2008 16:27:17 +0000 http://climbingnarc.com/2008/03/dave-macleod-free-solos-514b-in-spain#comment-1231 I think bottom line is it's a sick, proud ascent regardless of the grade and the man desirves his props where props are due! Don't think I would try it sans rope, even if it was 5.11 and I had it wired! I think bottom line is it’s a sick, proud ascent regardless of the grade and the man desirves his props where props are due! Don’t think I would try it sans rope, even if it was 5.11 and I had it wired!

]]> By: gabor http://climbingnarc.com/2008/03/dave-macleod-free-solos-514b-in-spain/comment-page-1/#comment-1226 gabor Sat, 15 Mar 2008 01:02:16 +0000 http://climbingnarc.com/2008/03/dave-macleod-free-solos-514b-in-spain#comment-1226 Heres what Kairn.com wrote: Mais en fouillant un peu plus dans l'historique de la voie "Darwin Dixit", il s'avère que l'année passée celle-ci fût réalisée à vue par un certain Chris Sharma, la décôtant à ... 8b!!"Le pas dur se trouve au raz du sol, et la voie ne monte pas haut" nous précise également un local de Margalef.   Literal translation: "But looking a bit into the history of the route "Darwin Dixit", we find that last year it was onsighted by Chris Sharma and downgraded to...8b! " The hard part is found near the ground, and the route doesnt go very high" - tells us a Margalef local Heres what Kairn.com wrote:
Mais en fouillant un peu plus dans l’historique de la voie “Darwin Dixit”, il s’avère que l’année passée celle-ci fût réalisée à vue par un certain Chris Sharma, la décôtant à … 8b!!”Le pas dur se trouve au raz du sol, et la voie ne monte pas haut” nous précise également un local de Margalef.
 
Literal translation:
“But looking a bit into the history of the route “Darwin Dixit”, we find that last year it was onsighted by Chris Sharma and downgraded to…8b!
“ The hard part is found near the ground, and the route doesnt go very high” – tells us a Margalef local

]]> By: Climbing Narcissist http://climbingnarc.com/2008/03/dave-macleod-free-solos-514b-in-spain/comment-page-1/#comment-1225 Climbing Narcissist Fri, 14 Mar 2008 23:08:36 +0000 http://climbingnarc.com/2008/03/dave-macleod-free-solos-514b-in-spain#comment-1225 Interesting, I had not seen that about the grade.  MacLeod addresses the height issue on his blog.  He said that the route is not that tall but that it overhangs a road most of the way so falling off would not be real fun.  It seems weird that MacLeod would publicize the ascent this way if there was speculation that it was "only" 8b.<br><br>Guess I wish I could read French...<br> Interesting, I had not seen that about the grade.  MacLeod addresses the height issue on his blog.  He said that the route is not that tall but that it overhangs a road most of the way so falling off would not be real fun.  It seems weird that MacLeod would publicize the ascent this way if there was speculation that it was “only” 8b.

Guess I wish I could read French…

]]> By: gabor http://climbingnarc.com/2008/03/dave-macleod-free-solos-514b-in-spain/comment-page-1/#comment-1224 gabor Fri, 14 Mar 2008 23:01:36 +0000 http://climbingnarc.com/2008/03/dave-macleod-free-solos-514b-in-spain#comment-1224 heres something interesting.. kairn.com (more or less the french version of climbing.com) has written that this route was onsighted last year by chris sharma and has been downgraded to 8b. it also writes that the hard part is near the ground so if he fell he wouldnt get too injured. sounds like the french are a bit jealous or something? heres something interesting.. kairn.com (more or less the french version of climbing.com) has written that this route was onsighted last year by chris sharma and has been downgraded to 8b. it also writes that the hard part is near the ground so if he fell he wouldnt get too injured.
sounds like the french are a bit jealous or something?

]]> By: tbwilsonky http://climbingnarc.com/2008/03/dave-macleod-free-solos-514b-in-spain/comment-page-1/#comment-1223 tbwilsonky Fri, 14 Mar 2008 22:01:30 +0000 http://climbingnarc.com/2008/03/dave-macleod-free-solos-514b-in-spain#comment-1223 yeah 8a could really use an editorial staff with some experience in facilitating discussion.  i get their point, but since Dave wasn't wearing a harness, grabbing a draw would simply delay the inevitable ground fall (unless of course he could campus down the draws). not to mention that Dave is super-focused in ways I can only dream of.  i would hazard a guess that he wasn't even aware of the draws while climbing.  and i can almost guarantee the debate on 8a would make him laugh hysterically.hueco dreaming.  speaking of which, is anybody gonna be at Ponderosa (NM) this week?   I'm thinking about heading up there depending on how often I get onto North, but really don't wanna wander around sans posse.   yeah 8a could really use an editorial staff with some experience in facilitating discussion.  i get their point, but since Dave wasn’t wearing a harness, grabbing a draw would simply delay the inevitable ground fall (unless of course he could campus down the draws). not to mention that Dave is super-focused in ways I can only dream of.  i would hazard a guess that he wasn’t even aware of the draws while climbing.  and i can almost guarantee the debate on 8a would make him laugh hysterically.hueco dreaming.  speaking of which, is anybody gonna be at Ponderosa (NM) this week?   I’m thinking about heading up there depending on how often I get onto North, but really don’t wanna wander around sans posse.  

]]> By: Luke http://climbingnarc.com/2008/03/dave-macleod-free-solos-514b-in-spain/comment-page-1/#comment-1219 Luke Fri, 14 Mar 2008 18:40:29 +0000 http://climbingnarc.com/2008/03/dave-macleod-free-solos-514b-in-spain#comment-1219 Found Via this Supertopo <a href="http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=557219" rel="nofollow">thread</a>. A post solo interview is up: <a href="http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=868" rel="nofollow">http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=868</a> Found Via this Supertopo thread.
A post solo interview is up:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=868

]]> By: Climbing Narcissist http://climbingnarc.com/2008/03/dave-macleod-free-solos-514b-in-spain/comment-page-1/#comment-1217 Climbing Narcissist Fri, 14 Mar 2008 16:56:18 +0000 http://climbingnarc.com/2008/03/dave-macleod-free-solos-514b-in-spain#comment-1217 Ha, unforutnately my youtube trolling at work had to stop recently oweing to the fact that all youtube content is banned!<br> Ha, unforutnately my youtube trolling at work had to stop recently oweing to the fact that all youtube content is banned!

]]> By: byron http://climbingnarc.com/2008/03/dave-macleod-free-solos-514b-in-spain/comment-page-1/#comment-1216 byron Fri, 14 Mar 2008 16:51:40 +0000 http://climbingnarc.com/2008/03/dave-macleod-free-solos-514b-in-spain#comment-1216 <a href="http://youtube.com/watch?v=gIZaNluM2KM" rel="nofollow">http://youtube.com/watch?v=gIZaNluM2KM</A> No worries Narc, I am just surprised my trolling found it before you, you are usally like ten bazillion times quicker at finding dopeness then I ; ) If the link doesn't work drop me a line on my blog with your email and I will send you the code. Byron Out http://youtube.com/watch?v=gIZaNluM2KM
No worries Narc, I am just surprised my trolling found it before you, you are usally like ten bazillion times quicker at finding dopeness then I ; ) If the link doesn’t work drop me a line on my blog with your email and I will send you the code.
Byron Out

]]> By: Climbing Narcissist http://climbingnarc.com/2008/03/dave-macleod-free-solos-514b-in-spain/comment-page-1/#comment-1215 Climbing Narcissist Fri, 14 Mar 2008 16:30:45 +0000 http://climbingnarc.com/2008/03/dave-macleod-free-solos-514b-in-spain#comment-1215 Thanks for the tip Byron! Thanks for the tip Byron!

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