Comments on: News & Notes – 3/19/2008

By: Exclusive Details On Contents Of Dosage 5 | Climbing Narcissist

Exclusive Details On Contents Of Dosage 5 | Climbing Narcissist — Sun, 01 Jun 2008 22:05:44 +0000

[...] Puro and Tommy Caldwell on new boulders in Yosemite, including the 1st and 2nd ascents of Dogwood (V12), FA of Yabo Roof (V12), FA of Xenophile (V11), [...]

By: Boulder Bloc» Blogarchiv » Dosage V Weltpremiere

Boulder Bloc» Blogarchiv » Dosage V Weltpremiere — Thu, 29 May 2008 17:31:12 +0000

[...] Randy Puro und Tommy Caldwell beim Bouldern in Yosemite [...]

By: dan

dan — Tue, 01 Apr 2008 06:22:59 +0000

yeah, he abandoned that project, he began to clean it, but “youd be so fuckin scared up here………..pause…….at least i would….” he was still working rastaman as of two weeks ago. but his stay in bishop is pretty much done. hes coming down south to hopefully do the sit to somewhere in time.

By: tim

tim — Thu, 20 Mar 2008 19:10:51 +0000

i saw matt birch try it a couple times in Feb as well when me and my group were working on Evilution. I had no idea it was a project.

Birch is also working on a route about ten feet to the right of Evilution that also seems to lead up to the lip. I looked in the guildebook to see what it was and there was nothing in there, so it looks to be something new.

By: gabor

gabor — Thu, 20 Mar 2008 18:01:14 +0000

im pretty sure slaughterhouse 5 starts on tree-beard then go left.. at least thats what i was told when i tried it. i wonder what joes new variation can be? there was one project that kept going left off of slaughterhouse 5, maybe its that.

By: Climbing Narcissist

Climbing Narcissist — Thu, 20 Mar 2008 12:44:00 +0000

I don’t really know, but I believe the pictures of Matt trying it were taken in February.

By: TimS

TimS — Thu, 20 Mar 2008 10:52:16 +0000

Is Matt Birch still working it? He must be on good form after sending Mandala SDS – come on the Brits!

By: NorthEast

NorthEast — Thu, 20 Mar 2008 07:30:48 +0000

There is a reason why rastaman sit is still a project in Bishop. When it goes, it will be the hardest problem in Bishop and without a doubt one of the hardest in North America. There is a reason why it is still a project when you think of all the strong climbers that have spent time in Bishop over the past 10 years. Good luck Paul.

By: peter

peter — Thu, 20 Mar 2008 01:39:55 +0000

narc-i’m going to try to get up to willow to get on cain with chris in the coming weeks…while the holds are fresh and he can spray me down with beta so i will at least know how to do the moves. i’ll try to get some pics for you.

By: Climbing Narcissist

Climbing Narcissist — Wed, 19 Mar 2008 20:56:14 +0000

Steve – Thanks for the added info.

Tim – I could think of a lot worse places I would want to be stuck rehabbing an injury although it would be really hard with all that great climbing so close by.

JPWILL – Thanks for the additional info. I adjusted the post as well. I didn’t mean to give the impression it was some bolt clipping mecca. It just seemed like the climbing there was relatively safe and straightforward and not some sort of chossy alpine gnar-fest which was why I found the post very intriguing.

By: JPWill

JPWill — Wed, 19 Mar 2008 20:44:14 +0000

Hey Narc,The climbing around Frey in Bariloche isn’t really sport climbing. Primarily gear and mixed climbing. Hardly any all bolt lines. All you draw clippers, beware! There are a few sport cliffs near Mendoza (Los Arenales, though it too is primarily trad/aid), better cliffs near Cordoba (La Ola), and some ~4 hours S of beunos Aires (Sierra La Vigilancia). Chile has some sport climbing in the far north and near Santiago.JW

By: tim

tim — Wed, 19 Mar 2008 20:33:14 +0000

thanks for the well wishes! i’m sitting here in my living room looking at the sierra mountains out the window and trying to figure out how i can climb w/ the boot of doom. :p

By: Steve Schultz

Steve Schultz — Wed, 19 Mar 2008 20:14:16 +0000

alright, this is the rastaman history as i know it. It starts just left of Evilution and starts on a pretty bad pinch with a big lockoff to start. that’s the stand at least. the sit is on horrible polished holds.
Jared did the “FA” from that stand start and called it V12ish. it’s got a pretty serious and scary press move up high on it. your foot is on the final bread loaf sloper of evilution, the original version, when you do it.
John Bachar, if my memory serves me right, did a similar version of this by jumping to the lip hold and topping out from there. That was back in the 70’s or 80’s though.
either way the sit is next level stuff.

By: Climbing Narcissist

Climbing Narcissist — Wed, 19 Mar 2008 20:06:44 +0000

Ahh yes, the so-called "crimpmaster Jared Roth". He sure has disappeared hasn't he? Has anyone repeated his version? Not something that has gotten a lot of press either way. Perhpaps I need to add it to my list?

I'll adjust the EM news to be a bit more vague then, thanks for the heads up.

I too am flabbergasted at the amount of brain capacity I devote to remembering what other people do when they go climbing.

By: alex

alex — Wed, 19 Mar 2008 19:49:50 +0000

Rastaman Vibration was put up by Jared Roth; he called V14, I think.
Also, I’m pretty sure that Existence Mundane was first done by Scott Milton.

As for why I remember such things, I remain flabbergasted.

By: Climbing Narcissist

Climbing Narcissist — Wed, 19 Mar 2008 19:17:03 +0000

Ha, I had no idea it was there steve. I have probably touched the problem and I didn’t even know it. Is there an established stand up version of that problem then? How hard is it?

By: Kevlar

Kevlar — Wed, 19 Mar 2008 19:14:14 +0000

Rastaman sounds sick. It just sounds like it is one big lock-off for the start.

By: Steve Schultz

Steve Schultz — Wed, 19 Mar 2008 19:05:39 +0000

Rastaman is directly left of Evilution and the sit is sick looking. There was a brit working it for a bit while i was working out the moves on Evilution. Absolutely ridiculous. Good luck Paul. Hope you get the send.