Comments on: Ancient History: Narc Climbing On Spring Break

By: Rachel Melville

Rachel Melville — Sun, 30 Mar 2008 22:03:54 +0000

Well Bri… if you and Amy are out there in the future, and you happen to find yourselves looking for a really fun moderate multipitch route with a chill approach… you should check out Birdland… its in the sun… 5.7…. really comfortable, fun climbing, asthetic moves… takes gear really well… the rock is BOMBER… there arent ledges, boulders, and trees to ruin it for ya… and it is 600 feet tall! it has an awesome view for sure! I just thought i would throw that out there. you and amy need to go and take a climbing VA-CA together… i think… climb some cracks too… it would be good for your fingey!

By: zonk

zonk — Tue, 25 Mar 2008 01:27:02 +0000

hi gabor, i did not know that. thanks for the info!

By: gabor

gabor — Mon, 24 Mar 2008 22:46:40 +0000

its broken since then. the mandala stand was originally an 11 or soft 12 but now the second hold has crumbled and its a solid 12. therefore upping the grade of the sit.

By: zonk

zonk — Mon, 24 Mar 2008 20:07:32 +0000

the video of tony lamiche on the mandala sds had it graded as 8B. (yes, i know to view grades on climbing videos with skepticism.) but mick ryan of ukclimbing.com, who witnessed the FA, also mentions that it was originally given 8B. (btw, lamiche flashed the mandala stand!? pretty cool.)

By: steve schultz

steve schultz — Mon, 24 Mar 2008 16:02:43 +0000

Said he didn’t top it out. That’s a major dab. Especially since the original tops out. It’d be like climbing Evilution to the lip, its just half the fun.

By: You Know Who I 'Am'

You Know Who I 'Am' — Sun, 23 Mar 2008 20:13:23 +0000

Who’s that sexy hard-core climber? Miss ya’ Narc!

By: Climbing Narcissist

Climbing Narcissist — Sat, 22 Mar 2008 19:59:40 +0000

Very interesting, thanks for the heads up Jamie.

You can see his scorecard by clicking here.

By: JE

JE — Sat, 22 Mar 2008 17:37:44 +0000

you might want to search 8a for Charlie Brendsen, he has downrated Mandala sds and claimed the FA of Rastaman project…

By: Climbing Narcissist

Climbing Narcissist — Fri, 21 Mar 2008 17:09:23 +0000

Unfortunately I only packed a light fleece jacket so I was pretty cold (and wet) when it got below freezing at night.

If I were to go back I don't think the Gallery would be high on my list. Among other complaints, it reeked of urine underneath the boulder directly behind Yaak crack. Routes like Yaak crack and Fear and loathing sure were classic though...if I had sent either.

I sort of feel bad that I didn't get out and explore the multi-pitch routes at all (I had my reasons, saftey being at the top of the list). Next time for sure...

By: Sara

Sara — Fri, 21 Mar 2008 17:03:56 +0000

Thanks for the link — yeah, I can’t imagine spring break out there, it was perfect the last week in December… cold overnight, but not too bad. The Gallery was absurdly crowded when we were there, too… and I give you one guess what all of the loud conversation was about:Climbing gyms.There we are, out in the middle of freakin red rock canyon, and everybody’s talking about gyms. We got out of there quickly for more serene surroundings…