Comments on: Hard, Unrepeated American Boulders

By: db

db — Wed, 10 Mar 2010 07:40:46 +0000

Has anyone repeated that mono thing of sharma’s from dosage 3?
Forbidden Fruit maybe?

By: greg

greg — Mon, 22 Feb 2010 16:47:58 +0000

no kidding! thanks for the video sweaty!

By: Narc

Narc — Wed, 10 Feb 2010 19:00:05 +0000

He makes that thing look like V4!

By: sweatpants

sweatpants — Wed, 10 Feb 2010 16:26:40 +0000

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HJtYVbg2FPc

By: greg

greg — Wed, 10 Feb 2010 04:42:02 +0000

never noticed this. pretty sweet! the amatuer?

By: Narc

Narc — Tue, 26 Jan 2010 13:12:50 +0000

I’ve never read any accounts of anyone trying it.

By: Jim

Jim — Sat, 23 Jan 2010 01:27:32 +0000

Has anyone tried to repeated Full Package in Arkansas? I know Graham, Landman, and Robinson have all been there and i’m sure there have been other strong climbers. Seems like one of them would have tried to repeat it.

By: Paul

Paul — Mon, 18 Jan 2010 04:08:03 +0000

Let’s not forget about the infamous John Heggland

By: Joe

Joe — Tue, 29 Dec 2009 01:40:36 +0000

Where is The Catwalk (there is a v14 listed from there)?

By: Narc

Narc — Mon, 28 Dec 2009 16:06:01 +0000

Apparently he was able to go back and finish it up before heading to Vegas.

Until Warpath is repeated any assignment of a specific grade is purely speculative unless you have other info??

By: cole kronberg

cole kronberg — Mon, 28 Dec 2009 16:02:27 +0000

I thought that paul never sent lost in the hood according to his blog he did not. also warpath is rated v14.

By: jacob

jacob — Thu, 02 Apr 2009 22:13:32 +0000

phillip schaal repeated book of bitter aspects

By: Narc

Narc — Wed, 01 Apr 2009 11:49:57 +0000

One of my favorite climbing articles in recent memory

By: Zach

Zach — Wed, 01 Apr 2009 04:39:49 +0000

An article on Urban Climber Magazine’s online site has some info on the Litz problems at Obed. http://www.urbanclimbermag.com/themag/features/the_legend_of_litz_and_the_lilly_boulders/

By: Cannud

Cannud — Sat, 28 Mar 2009 23:45:46 +0000

I spoke too soon. Not a real person. Disregard. What a strange set of problems to pretend a fake person has climbed…

By: Cannud

Cannud — Sat, 28 Mar 2009 23:39:06 +0000

I should point you to Christophe Maschelein’s 8a. It seems that a couple years ago he did The Fly and got the 2nd ascents of Chinese Arithmetic and Morphine. Interesting comment/rating of Morphine vs. Fly.

http://www.8a.nu/user/Profile.aspx?UserId=15583

By: Narc

Narc — Tue, 24 Mar 2009 11:07:10 +0000

Thanks for the update!

By: Adrian

Adrian — Tue, 24 Mar 2009 06:50:43 +0000

Jon Cardwell has since downgraded The Tipping Point to 8B according to his 8a card.

By: Narc

Narc — Mon, 09 Mar 2009 19:25:58 +0000

Interesting questions. I will try to incorporate these into my upcoming review/update of this post.

By: chris

chris — Sun, 08 Mar 2009 17:21:08 +0000

just to ask everyones opinion…
1) the swarm and the mandala sit starts were originally graded v13. what happened?
2) seems like all who do ode to the modern man say (face to face) it’s v13.
3) we are experiencing grade compression over the last year or so, yes? i’m not bothered to say why, but it is happening.
4) bernd z did do coeur.. he took 2 trips and a torn tendon. some have done it in about 30 min, some have said v12… ? kneebars!
5) more and faster repeats don’t hafta mean soft. consensus takes time. it don’t matter, it’s about the individual and their feeling. the same problems that made dave G famous in his early days in the park have all been downgraded, not because he was wrong, but things are being compressed. John Sherman once said he thought crown of aragorn would be v11, that he didn’t think the grades should be sliced so thin.. another problem, like slashface, that people do by the truckload and “take” the grade, but slag it off amongst friends… honesty to self is all that matters. If a v11 feels v12 to you, maybe it is, or maybe it exploits your weaknesses. maybe you should go surfing.
I liked the comment about the track runners.

By: StellarTemple

StellarTemple — Fri, 21 Nov 2008 03:46:10 +0000

I know, right? Stupid humble people and their humility!!

By: Narc

Narc — Thu, 20 Nov 2008 22:13:35 +0000

People should stop being so humble! How are other people supposed to spray about their mad skillz if we don’t know what they are up to?

By: PepsiTwist

PepsiTwist — Thu, 20 Nov 2008 15:40:45 +0000

If anybody is still interested Pi’s full name is Phaydara Vongsavanthong. He does the marketing/advertising stuff for Nicros. Really fun guy to climb with. He doesnt talk alot about any of his ascents which makes it hard to get a gauge for how strong he really is. If you see him climb though, it leaves no doubt as to how incredibly strong he is.

By: Narc

Narc — Thu, 20 Nov 2008 12:37:24 +0000

I will remove any specific reference to it. Thanks.

By: Julian

Julian — Wed, 19 Nov 2008 21:48:15 +0000

FYI, access at B*****y in CT is sensitive. Not sure if publicity is a good idea.

By: Narc

Narc — Wed, 30 Jul 2008 18:58:00 +0000

Thanks for the update Matt. I will update the list.

By: Matt

Matt — Wed, 30 Jul 2008 18:49:37 +0000

RESOLVE V14-FA by Shaun Diamond in the Gunks.

Bling V13/14-FA Isaac Caldiero in LCC

By: Hard Boulder Problems in California « Dream In Vertical

Hard Boulder Problems in California « Dream In Vertical — Thu, 17 Jul 2008 20:39:16 +0000

[...] Boulder Problems in California 11 02 2008 Inspired by a discussion on ClimbingNarc I decided to try to start a list of all problems in California V12 or harder. This [...]

By: Dan

Dan — Tue, 27 May 2008 08:08:34 +0000

Just a thought. Many times linked problems can be harder than the sum of their parts for a reason both obvious and not so. Imagine, that you link two v10s for a v15. Crazy right? But the thing that most people don’t think about is the linking move(s) themselves. What if you link a v12 into a v14, but the 1,2,3 whatever moves actually connecting the two are v16? Just some food for thought.

By: dom

dom — Tue, 20 May 2008 15:53:22 +0000

kevin jorgeson sent mandala sit. gabri is so crazy for trying to downgrade it

By: Steve

Steve — Sun, 20 Apr 2008 10:34:06 +0000

Second the Garth Miller problems in Utah. From memory this was on the same trip that he was flashing 10’s, 11’s and at least one 12. Cheech took him Quite a few days.

By: andy

andy — Fri, 28 Mar 2008 18:22:09 +0000

so yeah the never ending grade debates….
interestingly enough, several of the FA’ers of these problems(Bos, Litz, etc.) never graded these problems..they have simply been interpolated from observers..
there are several unrepeated sharma problems in NE that have been “estimated” at V13+

By: mike

mike — Fri, 21 Mar 2008 20:29:58 +0000

Little Cottonwood Canyon has a couple of unrepeated problems in that range:1) Cheech, rated V13 – done nearly 10 years ago by Garth Miller, right next to Bully, unrepeated2) Mantra, rated V13 – right exit to Copperhead, Garth Miller again

By: The Wheel of Life - grading issue « Schmoubouldering’s Weblog

The Wheel of Life - grading issue « Schmoubouldering’s Weblog — Tue, 11 Mar 2008 14:34:52 +0000

[...] of V12 and above, including multiple V15’s with already second or third ascents. See ClimbingNarc’s extrapolation on this topic for more [...]

By: peter

peter — Thu, 28 Feb 2008 01:14:02 +0000

if this is the same pi, he’s this crazy strong guy who “climbs” up in the cities. really he lurks around the back of gyms…he’s kinda that guy who everyone knows is really strong but never puts his shoes on. the few times i’ve seen him actually climb i’ve been impressed. very impressed.

By: Zonk

Zonk — Wed, 27 Feb 2008 20:58:57 +0000

who is Pi? what’s his full name? can you provide a little history?

By: Luke

Luke — Wed, 13 Feb 2008 00:04:01 +0000

Perhapses you are thinking of some of the problems in PA from this list? http://www.newenglandbouldering.com/stories/nehardest.html

From the 4 years I climbed in PA there are definably some legit hard problems (V10+). Adam Markert and Char Fetterolf who were Haycock, PA locals could pull down hard. The hardest problem that I had heard of was a project called Big Monday that was supposed to be V13. I don’t think it was ever sent and these days Adam is living in Colorado.

I might be skeptical about the V13 at Hunter rocks since sandstone was not high quality but the rock tended to be steep and pocketed so it is possible.

Just my 2 cents since I have been to those areas.

By: Climbing Narcissist

Climbing Narcissist — Tue, 12 Feb 2008 19:10:49 +0000

Thanks for the info Jamie. I climbed with Pi a bit during my time in Madison, crazy strong fingers as Steve pointed out. Chill dude as well. He is in a few Nicros ads that I remember seeing in the magazines lately.

I’ll add the Litz problems to the list even if they might be V13.

By: JE

JE — Tue, 12 Feb 2008 19:04:07 +0000

sorry i didnt get in on this earlier, Morphine was repeated in a day by Pi from Minnesota and he suggested V12. Litz has never graded Warpath, only others have made suggestions. Chinese Arithmetic is very hard, maybe hard V13 maybe V14, and interestingly enough I was told from a very reputable source that Litz thought Tilta-whirl direct (his other problem at the Obed) was harder. Book of Bitter Aspects is unrepeated, but it’s not as hard as Jade, it could be a hard V13. There are several V13s in Pennsylvania of which there should be some skeptiscism.

By: Luke

Luke — Tue, 12 Feb 2008 00:03:41 +0000

I am putting togeather a list of V12+ problems in California. I would love some input since the list is far from complete and mainly focuses on Bishop. Comments would be appreciated.

http://dreaminvertical.blogspot.com/2008/02/hard-boulder-problems-in-california.html