Hard, Unrepeated American Boulders

I thought it would be interesting to compile a list of hard (V14 and up) boulder problems that have not been repeated in North America. Thanks to everyone for help in compiling these problems (Most of these grades are pure speculation from outside observers):

This of course pales in comparison to the list of confirmed V14 and up problems that were established and repeated in the U.S. in just the past five years or so:

Problem Grade Location Ascents – FA listed first and then in no particular order
Ode to the Modern Man V14 Mt. Evans, CO Woods, Landman, Robinson, Jorgeson, Lamiche, Cardwell, Hukkataival, Wilder, Schaal
Jade V14 RMNP, CO Woods, Landman, Robinson, Hukkataival, Schaal, Traversi, Webb, Beall, Davis, Puccio
Witness the Fitness V15? (Broken?) Arkansas Sharma, Nicole, Woods
Terre De Sienne V13/14 Hueco Tanks, TX Nicole, Graham, Woods, Robinson, Cardwell, Wilder, Parton, Webb Parsons, Kassay, Hukkataival, McColl
Terremer V15 Hueco Tanks, TX Nicole, Robinson, Woods, Beall
Aslan V14 RMNP, CO Woods, Landman, McColl, Di Felice, Webb, Traversi, Litz, Cardwell, Graham, Verhoeven
Midnight Express V14 Boulder Canyon, CO Landman, Woods, Graham, Allred, Robinson, Parady, Webb, Schaal
Mandala SDS V13/14 Buttermilks, CA Lamiche, Graham, Woods, Robinson, McColl, Diamond, Birch, Moroni, Jorgeson, Wilder, French (V13 beta), Goicoechea, Barrett (V13 beta), Voges (V13), Hedrick (V13 beta), Verhoeven, Glairon-Mondet, Hukkataival, Pringle, Warren, Heal, Boyko, Megos, Amma
The Swarm V13/14 Buttermilks, CA Birch, Wilder, Graham, Landman, Woods, Robinson, Jorgeson, Davis, Clifford, Diamond, Nicole, Beall, Hukkataival, Peirce, Hedrick, Pringle, Shiraishi, McRae, Puccio
Echale V14 Clear Creek Canyon, CO Woods, Graham, Robinson, Schaal, Webb, Gravelle, Takeuchi, D’Anastasio, Hong
The Saddhu V14 Temple, NM Fairfield, Cardwell, Woods, Di Felice
Goldfish Trombone V14 Happy Boulders, CA Edwards, Sharma, Pringle, McColl, Woods, Nicole, Martin, Lander, Diamond
Esperanza V14 Hueco Tanks, TX Nicole, Litz, Sharma, Woods, Graham, Robinson, Duttle, Pringle, Haynes, Webb Parsons, Wilde, Hamada, Kassay, Hong, Dory, Hukkataival, Webb, Voges, Davis, Verhoeven, Taylor, Muller
Book Of Bitter Aspects V13/14 Bradley, CT Graham, Schaal, Zolotukhin (V13)
The Fly 5.14d/V14 Rumney, NH Graham, Parady, Sharma, Lamiche, Kehl (no rope), Jorgeson (no rope), Robinson, Woods, Wilder, Megos, Maschelien (no rope)
Wood Grain Grippin’ V14 Horseshoe Canyon Ranch, AR Graham, Woods, Robinson, Voges
The Beach V14 Moe’s Valley, UT Woods, Graham, Whiteside (V13)
Chinese Arithmetic V13/14? Lilly Boulders, TN Litz, Woods
Big Worm V14 Mt. Evans, CO Graham, Schulte, Robinson, Woods, Voges, Draughn, Nakajima, Wetmore, McNeil, Kuckovich, Betterton
Lost In The Hood V14 Cowell, AR Graham, Robinson, Voges, Hukkataival, Dory, Woods (V13), Webb (V13)
Evil Backwards V14 Mt. Evans, CO Woods, Graham, Cardwell, Emerson, Hukkataival, Webb (V13), Voges (V13), Weaver (V13), Antheunisse (V13), Lerner (V13), Robinson (V13)
Let The Right One In V14 Mt. Evans, CO Woods, Graham, Hong, Webb
Warrior Up V15 Mt. Evans, CO Woods, Graham, Webb (V14), Hong (V14), Robinson, O’Rourke
We Can Build You V14 Mt. Evans, CO Graham, Woods, Webb, Voges, Nakajima, Robinson
Resolve V14 Gunks, NY Diamond, Bosley
Direct North V14 Buttermilks – Bishop, CA Diamond, Glairon-Mondet, Beall, Traversi, Zolotukhin, G. Traversi, Megos, McRae, Amma
Crook By The Book V14 Hueco Tanks , TX Woods, Graham, Webb
The Game V15 Boulder Canyon, CO Woods, Traversi, Cardwell
Warpath V14 City of Rocks, ID Litz, Woods, Fultz, Robinson, Webb
Vanilla Sky V14 Mt. Evans, CO Graham, Webb (V13), Voges (V13)
Memory Is Parallax V14 Estes Park, CO Graham, Woods, Hong, Traversi, Robinson, Lerner
Desperanza V15 Hueco Tanks, TX Woods, Webb Parsons, Davis
Mirror Reality V14 RMNP, CO Woods, Webb, Robinson, O’Rourke, Landman
Paint It Black V15 RMNP, CO Woods, Robinson, Graham, Dory
White Noise V15 RMNP, CO Woods, Hong (V14), Graham, Robinson
Mind To Motion V14 Nicky’s Boulders, CO Woods, Hong, Graham, Dory
The Grey V14 Wild Basin – RMNP, CO Graham, Hong, Woods, Traversi (V12), Robinson
Blood of a Young Wolf V14 Hueco Tanks, TX Graham, Davis, Hukkataival, Robinson, Webb
Aggravated Assault V14 Griffin Falls, AL Woods, Webb, Robinson
Meadowlark Lemon V14 Red Rock, NV Robinson, Graham, Traversi, Takeuchi, Woods (V14), Webb (V14), Hukkataival (V14), Ceria, Whiteside, McColl, Schubert, Caballero, Feehally, Glairon-Mondet
Loved By Few, Hated By Many (Low) V14 Horseshoe Canyon Ranch, AR Webb, Woods, Robinson
Neon Desert V14 Hueco Tanks, TX Graham, Davis, Webb, Robinson
Bridge Of Ashes V15 Elkland, CO Graham, Woods, Webb (V14)
The Insurgency V14 Joe’s Valley, UT Litz, Robinson
The Ice Knife V15 Guanella Pass, CO Graham, Woods, Robinson, Webb (V14), Nakajima
The Wheel Of Chaos V14 RMNP, CO Woods, Hukkataival, Hong, Graham, Robinson, D’Anastasio, Cardwell, Verhoeven, Puccio, Landman
The 1%er V14 Mt. Evans, CO Schulte, Webb (V13)
The Wheel Of Wolvo V15 Mt. Evans, CO Webb, Woods, Graham
Delirium V15 Mt. Evans, CO Webb, Woods
The Right V14 Boulder Canyon, CO Schulte, Woods (V13)
The Penrose Step V14 Leavenworth, WA Traversi, Webb
The Purge V14 Elkland, CO Woods, Robinson, Graham
Force Of Nature V14 Moe’s Valley, UT Caldiero, Fultz (V13), Whiteside (V13), McRae
The Reckoning V14 Squamish, BC T Doyle, McRae, Webb
Lucid Dreaming V15 Buttermilks, CA Robinson, Woods, Megos
Spirit Walker V14 27th St. Boulders, Ogden, UT Chertudi, Whiteside (V13)
The Nest V15 Red Rock, NV Woods, Webb, Robinson, Hukkataival
Too Many Martinis V14 Hueco Tanks, TX Sharma, Litz, McColl
Trieste V14 Red Rock, NV Robinson, Woods
The Phoenix V14 RMNP, CO O’Rourke (V13), Woods, Webb (V13), Graham, Traversi, Robinson
Strangers from Within V14 Secret Garden, CO Robinson, Graham
Bossin’ Up V14 Secret Garden, CO Robinson, Graham, Woods
Irreversible V14 RMNP, CO Woods, Graham
Defying Gravity V15 South Platte, CO Woods, Webb
Komodo V14 Neverland, WY Webb, Graham, Woods, Robinson
Bling V13/14 Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT Caldiero, Fultz

Any other problems for either list?? Additions/Corrections?? Leave a comment below.

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211 Responses to Hard, Unrepeated American Boulders

  1. Jon Broughton April 24, 2013 at 4:56 pm #

    Graham did Loved by few hated by many, not sure at what point in time but he has certainly done it. The footage is in one of the dosage videos…

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    • Narc April 24, 2013 at 6:12 pm #

      That version was from a higher start which is “only” V13 hence not eligible for this list

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  2. Logan May 4, 2013 at 1:02 pm #

    The Reckoning
    (V14) *** This incredible problem climbs the overhanging face left of
    Chicken Lips and
    Assholes
    . It follows the line labelled “super project” in the guidebook and starts seated with opposing
    sidepulls. This is one of Squamish’s hardest lines and is unrepeated. The grade needs confirmation. Stand
    up start is V10. (FA: Tim Doyle, 2010)

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  3. kevin carhart May 9, 2013 at 9:10 pm #

    Brian Boyko sent Mandala SDS just before the break in February or March 2012

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  4. shamelia May 26, 2013 at 8:14 pm #

    Dave Wetmore did Big Worm this past fall

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  5. Gregg May 28, 2013 at 4:25 pm #

    John Glassberg sent The Right and suggested v13

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  6. Jackie May 31, 2013 at 11:14 am #

    Dave Graham and Jon Glassberg both did The Right via Freedom–a different start and actually a different method for the finish as well. Also looks like an incredible line. Chris’ version of The Right starts at the farthest left side of the boulder and climbs to the right prow and up. The Right via Freedom starts in the middle of the boulder and cuts out to the prow, then right. The original lines on the boulder, The Amendment and Freedom, have the same finish but these different starts and have different grades.

    Joel Zerr did The Mandala Sit (V13 beta?) this March – http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TLYuNRQruCg&feature=youtu.be

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  7. Dan June 1, 2013 at 11:08 pm #

    Carlo just threw the downgrade gauntlet on The Grey.

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  8. Josh August 22, 2013 at 5:38 pm #

    nalle repeated wheel of chaos

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    • Narc August 22, 2013 at 5:39 pm #

      Already noted

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  9. Jpless August 22, 2013 at 9:04 pm #

    Dave Wetmore did Big Worm as well: https://vimeo.com/54675825

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    • Jpless August 22, 2013 at 9:04 pm #

      Didn’t see he was on the list already. My bad, everyone.

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  10. Liam August 29, 2013 at 12:26 pm #

    Nalle and Dave repeated wheel of chaos

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    • Narc August 29, 2013 at 12:28 pm #

      Does that not show in the list for you? I added those names last week but this isn’t the first time someone has mentioned not seeing a name I already added.

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    • Liam August 29, 2013 at 12:30 pm #

      It’s on here twice, once as unrepeated and once with the repeats

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      • Narc August 29, 2013 at 12:38 pm #

        Ahh, I see now. I’ll fix that, thanks.

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  11. Gregg August 30, 2013 at 10:23 am #

    According to 8a, Christophe Maschelein sent the fly, ropeless, in 2007.

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    • Narc August 30, 2013 at 10:28 am #

      Somebody had mentioned him previously but then dismissed him as not being a real person. I’m not sure why, so until otherwise proven I’ll add his ascent to the list.

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      • SJS October 18, 2013 at 6:25 am #

        I don’t think Maschelein should be on the list. Some people have claimed that he is fake and if you google that name you get 7 results. Seems suspicious to me. If he’s allowed on the list you should also put him as a repeater of Chinese Arithmetic (V13) which he apparently sent after 1 hour for its 2nd ascent.

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  12. Miles September 12, 2013 at 8:21 pm #

    I didn’t read all comments so I hope no one has pointed this out yet.

    It is said that both Zazen and North Ridge (Squamish) had a hold break after the first ascent. They were thought to be V13 before the break and no one has done them since. This doesn’t mean they are V14 at all – they might not even be possible. The guidebook author put V14 as a wild guess to the new difficulty. I just thought this was pretty different from a problem that was climbed and never done again in the same state.

    The Singularity and The Reckoning are the only V14’s in Squamish that have been climbed (only once each) in their current state.

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  13. Taylor November 18, 2013 at 12:09 pm #

    I heard d woods threw down and eventually sent a hard climb called the thunder project. He was working it with jimmy web who didnt flash it so it must be hard as hell. I havent heard anything about the grade however.

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  14. Scott November 19, 2013 at 6:57 am #

    Looks like P. Robinson sent the Purge according to 8a.

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  15. Jpless November 19, 2013 at 7:25 am #

    Ice Knife SDS for the unrepeated list?

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  16. Taylor November 19, 2013 at 11:40 am #

    Update on the thunder project. Daniel called it defying gravity and gave it v15

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  17. Oliver November 27, 2013 at 4:40 pm #

    Landman did Wood Grain Grippin in one of the Dosage movies no?

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    • asdasdffasdAsdf November 29, 2013 at 7:52 pm #

      Think Ty put up another 8b+ at Bradley as well that is unnamed?

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  18. john berkowisk January 24, 2014 at 11:07 am #

    Elan Jonas Mcrae has done his first 8B+, The Reckoning Sit in Squamish. “So psyched to finally send this thing, singularity is next! 2nd ascent?” The 18 year old did his first 8B in 2011 and his first 8c route in 2010.

    sourced from 8a.nu

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  19. SJS January 24, 2014 at 12:04 pm #

    Griffin Whiteside did The Beach and Force of Nature grading both V13.

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  20. islandkid29 February 13, 2014 at 6:08 pm #

    The Nest (V15) Still needs to be added http://climbingnarc.com/2013/12/the-nest-v15-red-rock-daniel-woods-jimmy-webb/

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    • Narc February 14, 2014 at 8:14 am #

      Good call!

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  21. Poppa Chilli April 1, 2014 at 3:35 am #

    House of doom?

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    • Narc April 8, 2014 at 9:25 pm #

      V13?

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  22. cherrybomb April 8, 2014 at 10:31 pm #

    Webb did Litz’s Warpath I believe as well…https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7VCXhkUbIRE

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  23. Stu April 9, 2014 at 12:52 am #

    hypnotized minds? Or am I blind?

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  24. Stu April 9, 2014 at 12:53 am #

    yep. I’m fuggin’ blind…

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  25. Mark Tilburgs April 11, 2014 at 6:46 am #

    a lifetime of projects 🙂

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  26. Josh April 12, 2014 at 9:54 am #

    no additives sit and insurgency sit are both V14s in joes right????

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  27. chris schulte April 19, 2014 at 9:25 am #

    Kevin Cuckovich did Big Worm too.

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    • Stephen April 19, 2014 at 2:49 pm #

      Thomas Betterton has also climbed big worm

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  28. Alan Kahn May 8, 2014 at 3:48 pm #

    Resolve in the Gunks just got repeated this weekend by Bryce Viola

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=wdDCWHcmHPY

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  29. SP June 15, 2014 at 12:36 am #

    two many martinis Sharma. Litz

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  30. Mat June 15, 2014 at 9:52 pm #

    Tim Doyle did the FA of The Reckoning in Squamish BC…

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  31. Owen August 22, 2014 at 10:47 am #

    Might be worth noting the problems that have broken and may now be impossible at the original grade (obv. a great deal of conjecture in that statement). Eg. Zazen and witness the fitness.

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  32. Islandkid29 August 31, 2014 at 11:03 pm #

    Will Anglin did Evil Backwards he is strong and deserving of a place on this list. Also is was there ever a verdict on “the machinist” minute 1:15 in the “76 points in hueco” vid?

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    • Narc September 2, 2014 at 8:03 am #

      I haven’t been updating that problem for a while now since it is not V14 any longer. Will is a beast though!

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      • Will Anglin September 2, 2014 at 11:45 am #

        It is definitely not V14 anymore. And Nalle is a beast. Comparatively, I am a tiny kitten with weak little paws…maybe one day!

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  33. Josh Bennett October 18, 2014 at 12:55 pm #

    What about D-Woods Defying Gravity v15 in Colorado. From the film the Huntsmen.

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    • Narc October 20, 2014 at 6:37 pm #

      It’s on the list!

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      • austinhowell6 December 19, 2014 at 11:40 am #

        Not anymore =D lol

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  34. Islandkid29 November 16, 2014 at 3:19 am #

    House of Doom v14 in Hueco and is there a verdict on the Machinist v14 in Hueco Shown in Daniel Woods’ Rock Rodeo Videos 2014 and 2012 respectively.

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    • DDD November 16, 2014 at 11:45 am #

      Both originally proposed to be V13 and still graded V13 by 100% of ascentionists.

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  35. SJS November 17, 2014 at 7:39 am #

    Top Sirloin V14, Hueco Tanks, FA: Sean McColl
    http://sendage.com/climb/top-sirloin-east-spur-hueco-tanks-tx-usa
    Webb also did The Reckoning

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  36. Alex Biale December 17, 2014 at 1:58 pm #

    Love this. Thanks, Brian. What about ‘Misdirection’ V14 on the Grandma Peabody? FA The Real Deal Dan Beall. Unrepeated. Maybe a candidate for Hard Unrepeated Boulders?

    Also I put up this v3 in Burst Rock that still goes unrepeated. Possibly a candidate too?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!

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    • Narc December 17, 2014 at 2:02 pm #

      It’s hidden in the middle of the list, but it’s there. Your v3 is still being reviewed by the Hard Boulder Board of Directors!

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  37. islandkid29 January 19, 2015 at 12:18 pm #

    “Nuclear War – V14 – Matt Bosley – Harriman State Park, NYdi” What does the “di” Stand for?

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    • Narc January 20, 2015 at 9:32 am #

      I think that was just a typo on my part

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  38. Owen January 23, 2015 at 3:31 pm #

    What about Kehl’s Seventh Circle? I don’t think that’s been repeated?

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    • Narc January 23, 2015 at 3:38 pm #

      Not enough information to really gauge how hard it might be is there?

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      • Owen January 26, 2015 at 1:02 pm #

        True. Its an *incredible* line (was looking at it last week hence the out-of-the-blue comment). I am very surprised it hasn’t attracted more interested from the near-constant flow of world class climbers who hit up hueco every season. An atypical kehl problem – it has one of the best landings in hueco and not even that tall!

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        • Nick January 26, 2015 at 10:19 pm #

          It was listed as V14 on the Rock Rodeo problem list for 2014. See 1:15 here: https://vimeo.com/87524788

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  39. Jonsh January 24, 2015 at 10:41 am #

    Are we including Squamish problems in this list because of their proximity to the U.S.? Because if so we should also include all of the Peñoles sends too.

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  40. Jacob January 27, 2015 at 6:28 pm #

    What about L’ Étoile du Nord? Jim wont grade it but there is little doubt it is at least V14 and there is legitmate speculation that it could be harder. Nonetheless, it is one of the purest and beautiful lines I have ever seen.

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    • Jacob February 11, 2015 at 11:11 am #

      Just curious… Is there a reason you’re not adding L’ Étoile du Nord?

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      • Narc February 11, 2015 at 11:13 am #

        Mostly just that I keep forgetting. I’ll add it today.

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        • Jacob February 11, 2015 at 6:02 pm #

          Awesome. Now get some of those Colorado folks to come out and see how hard it is. Not sure if you ever made it up to Sawmill during your time in the Midwest but you should come too. It is the land of the only grade that matters (v7).

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          • Narc February 11, 2015 at 6:26 pm #

            I’ve never been, but I’ve always wanted to. I moved back to WI so maybe the time is right?

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  41. Islandkid29 February 19, 2015 at 1:20 am #

    Megos did Lucid Dreaming

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  42. Yannick February 23, 2015 at 12:26 am #

    Elan Jonas Mcrae has climbed The Swarm, Direct North, and Force of Nature (calling it “hard 13 or easy 14”) as well as The Reckoning. All are on sendage.com

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    • Narc February 23, 2015 at 8:00 am #

      Thanks!

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  43. CanyonMan March 17, 2015 at 8:05 am #

    Notcied J Webb’s name isn’t on the list for a repeat on ‘The Reckoning’…

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    • Narc March 17, 2015 at 8:08 am #

      It is now, thanks!

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