Comments on: Dab & Die?

By: Jeremy

Jeremy — Thu, 23 Oct 2008 16:54:35 +0000

I think style is subject to a fruitless debate among your fellow crew. If you are at the top the the sport, there needs to be consistency so pulling a V10 is the same for everyone.

At the higher levels your group of fellow climbers changes, your group of fellow climbers becomes the greater climbing community. I think at that point it really matters.

Well unless you are a cheap cheating SOB, like who ever put “first accent” on this video…http://climbingnarc.com/2008/10/reach-out-and-touch-someone

Thanks, CN love the site.

By: Reach Out And Touch Someone | Climbing Narcissist

Reach Out And Touch Someone | Climbing Narcissist — Thu, 23 Oct 2008 16:06:05 +0000

[...] but that’s not why he thought it was worth watching. See if you can notice anything strange taking [...]

By: Dab & Die Followup | Climbing Narcissist

Dab & Die Followup | Climbing Narcissist — Thu, 28 Feb 2008 15:41:52 +0000

[...] Dab & Die Followup Posted February 28, 2008 at 9:37 am by Climbing Narcissist | Post a comment If one thing is clear from our recent discussion on Dabbing, it is that using your knee on a topout does not count for a dab. Poor style? No doubt. Cheating? I guess not. The number of top level climbers using their knees during the Adult ABS Nationals finals was astounding and at times rather humorous. I’m not sure if I am remembering correctly but I thought I saw Grady Bagwell run up the top of the Hueco boulder on his knees on purpose during Youth Qualis as well. [...]

By: Climbing Narcissist

Climbing Narcissist — Tue, 19 Feb 2008 12:27:32 +0000

The pros need a lesson in proper style. The number of knees used during topouts during final Saturday night was astounding.

By: Climbing Narcissist

Climbing Narcissist — Thu, 14 Feb 2008 01:08:36 +0000

I agree that if you are making money off of your accomplishments then it is more important to be honest in what you have on your spraysheet. That is why I think people were taking issue with some of Paul’s time descriptions of his sends even though the difference to him was immaterial.

I too have problems on my spraysheet that were the result of minor dabs which I have noted. For me it often doesn’t seem like there is enough time or energy to justify re-climbing certain problems simply to correct very minor dabs. If all I did was climb then that might be a different story.

By: Ryan

Ryan — Thu, 14 Feb 2008 01:02:11 +0000

The longer I climb, the more I become a fan of the “Lee Payne” mentality. Basically, it says do what you want to do and be honest about it. If you don’t like where a problem starts, start different, but be honest about where you started. A similar mentality goes for dabs and drop offs.

I think it is different if you are at the top of the sport and are receiving money based on your achievements. Perhaps it is also different if you have a scorecard.

There are three problems on my scorecard on which I have dabbed. Two of the comments directly say dab and the third says something about poor form.

I do not feel bad at all about having those problems on my scorecard, but I can see how others would think that I haven’t done the problems.

By: zonk

zonk — Wed, 13 Feb 2008 22:03:01 +0000

those rubber kneepads, where are they from? did climbers import them from some other discipline?

By: drX

drX — Wed, 13 Feb 2008 19:42:18 +0000

JE – paul on Echale? dab fo sho

By: Climbing Narcissist

Climbing Narcissist — Wed, 13 Feb 2008 16:04:28 +0000

How scandalous. Obviously you are not going to say who it is but it would be very interesting to find out.

Maybe there should be a post on scandalous scorecards containing invalid ascents and banned problems…

By: JE

JE — Wed, 13 Feb 2008 15:59:42 +0000

I know of an interesting situation where a strong climber “sent” a well known hard problem with a dab. Other climbers called him out that day, and he tried to repeat it, twice, both times failing to do the problems with out a dab. Then he left and ran home to put it one his scorecard.
As I often say, there is only one rule in rock climbing, “the ground is OFF”