“Coming to Carleton was a strictly academic decision,” I explain to the student interviewing me for the Carletonian, the student Newspaper at Carleton College, a small liberal arts college in Northfield Minnesota (think Middlebury in the Midwest). It was my first week on campus and already word had gotten out that I was “some kind [...]
Red Wing Barn Bluff: A Midwestern Anomaly
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Ty Landman Midnight Express (V14) Video
Ty Landman recently established a possible V14 in Boulder Canyon which he called Midnight Express. Check out the brand new video at Moonclimbing. You can read his quality write-up on his efforts here.

Patxi Usobiaga Climbing La Rambla Original (5.15a)
Click here to watch the video of Patxi Usobiaga climbing La Rambla Original (5.15a) recently. Thanks to Ant for the tip.
Landman Brothers Head East
Ty and Jeff Landman spent the Thanksgiving week exploring some of the bouldering on the East Coast. Despite not succeeding on his main objective, Dave Graham’s The Fly (V14) at Rumney, Ty managed to tick his usual number of hard testpieces with seemingly little effort. Jeff also had a good week it seems for being [...]

Triple Crown 2007: Stone Fort/LRC
Thanks to Ryan Olson for the following results from the 2007 Triple Crown finale at the Stone Fort: Women 1) Lisa Rands 2) Kate McGinnis 3) Sasha DiGiullian 4) Jill Church 5) Danielle Berger Men 1) Paul Robinson 2) Sam Davis 3) Chris Sierzant 4) Max Zolotukhin 5) Jimmy Webb Not placing: Tommy Caldwell, Wills [...]
Sharma & Usobiaga Repeat Andrada 5.15a
The somewhat elusive (from an online spray observer’s standpoint) Chris Sharma has surfaced in Spain with his recent repeat of Dani Andrada’s 5.15a La Novena Enmienda at Santa Linya. This 175 foot long route connects the first 75 feet of La Novena Puerta (5.14c) with 100 feet of La Enmienda (5.14b). Dani Andrada on La [...]
3rd V13 Flash for James Pearson
21 year old James Pearson added to his unprecedented list of V13 flashes this past month when he flashed Schules des Lebens in Chironico, Switzerland. In Switzerland to work on Dave Graham’s unrepeated V15 From Dirt Grows the Flowers, Pearson had a great deal of success on several of the “easier” problem he tried. He [...]
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Daniel: Really cool edit. One of the better climbing short...
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Joe Corrado: #1 on my destination list...mind will forever be b...
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Narc: My mind is still blown......
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Pat C: He's also really close on Midnight Express, go Yv...
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Narc: 33 years 9 months 27 days if you want to be specif...
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CarlosFromPhilly: Any idea how old he is? So awesome to know that h...
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David: I've always thought that section of 3:05-3:55 was...
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When In Doubt Pack It Out
May 16, 2012
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Gravelle Repeats Echale (V14)
May 16, 2012
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El Cap Report Returns For Spring 2012
May 15, 2012
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2nd Ascent Of Mystic Stylez (V15) By Dave MacLeod
May 15, 2012
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Hayden Kennedy Climbing Carbondale Short Bus (5.14-)
May 14, 2012
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Ashima Hits The New York Times
May 13, 2012
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Video Friday – 5/11/2012
May 11, 2012
News & Notes
When In Doubt Pack It Out
I don’t know about you, but I always try my best to climb close to an actual bathroom. In case you don’t, the Access Fund has a nice refresher on what to do when nature calls.
Gravelle Repeats Echale (V14)
I guess it shouldn’t be surprising that with training like this that Canadian Yves Gravelle was able to climb his first V14 in Daniel Woods’ Echale in Clear Creek Canyon according to his 8a scorecard.
El Cap Report Returns For Spring 2012
So, listen up Cubicle Pukes!! Put down your work, clear the room, put on some cool tunes, and come with me to the Valley of your dreams, in this, the first of many Reports to follow.
Yep, the El Cap Report is back.





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