Breaking News…Mrs. Narc suffered a devastating fall off the black problem by the stairs at the ABS comp this past weekend at VE Warrenville. Her awesome effort that ended in a slap (but no stick) of the grimy finish natural was rewarded with a loud, bone popping impact with the overly soft ground (ironic no?). Initial attempts at convincing her to seek medical attention were rebuffed, but common sense and excruciating pain prevailed by Monday morning. Diagnosis: severe sprain, not a fracture. Not good timing for a trip to HP40 on Thursday. Please send vibes of healing and/or one legged bouldering beta for HP40.

Boot of Doom Imminent?
Posted In: Off the Board
8 Responses to Boot of Doom Imminent?
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Oz
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News & Notes
Oz
This incredible photo essay by Keith Ladzinski from his trip to Australia last year with Dave Graham, Nalle Hukkataival and Ian Dory would make a great coffee table book don’t you think? (h/t Josh on twitter for the link).
“You think it will be cool till it isn’t fun anymore”
The North Face catches up with their athlete Alex Honnold to find out a bit more about his and Tommy Caldwell’s big day in Yosemite, his plans to rope solo the same feat for his segment in the Reel Rock Tour and a casual mention of how he free soloed the West Face of El Cap. As to how the idea for the triple link-up came about:
You do one route and you have a lot of time left in the day and you think, “Oh maybe we should have done two.” And eventually you do two with time left over and you say, “maybe we could do three…” and we did three and we didn’t have any time left over so we said, “we’re over it.”
More detail and pictures from Kelly Cordes on the big day here as well.
Bad Girls Club (5.14d) Repeated By Jon Cardwell
According to his 8a scorecard, Jon Cardwell has repeated Bad Girls Club, a 5.14d in Rifle, CO first done last summer by Matty Hong.






will you be at HP40 for the comp?
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Nope, just for Boulderween weekend. Good luck at the comp though.
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yo: the first two weeks in the boot are going to be uncomfortable while the swelling is up, the skin is black, and the fun is not.
after that, the pain subsides and you can start getting stupid wit da boot, though all ground falls will justly cause pain. it is not until later in the boot cycle, when one is mostly healed and accustomed to falling on his or her back instead of feet, that climbing will be ok.
also: invest in the band aid special blister ampules because the boot gave me blisters the first couple days. these blister things work wonders.
finally: i will try to expedite the BOOT OF DOOM VOLUME 2 video for her perusal !!! if i cannot finish it, i’ll bounce a draft version by thursday.
very sorry to hear. it is the year of the ankle fracture. bleh. that’s the 6th climber in our e-circle to succumb this season alone.
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also: have her remove the insole from a fairly new shoe and put that under her foot in the BOOT of mf DOOM. these boots have a huge seam in the ‘sock’ fabric that gets hella uncomfortable after you have been putting your weight on the heel of the foot for every dang step. the insole helps significantly.
if she wants to resole it with climbing rubber, i have the beta for that too, just let me know via email.
werd
–j
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Thanks for the beta JJ – hopefully a full fledged boot of doom will not be necessary
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That sucks! Hope she has a speedy recovery.
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Update: re-diagnosis by orthopedic professional is that it is a bad sprain and not fractured as originally thought…no boot of doom needed!
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Sorry to hear about that. Hope she recovers fast.
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